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Insert Pics
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02-27-2010, 07:50 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 3,068
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27-04 Step 3 Brass Insert
Forcing the brass insert into the nylon brake line tube was difficult for me using the boiling water method. I found an easier way is to push the insert with a hot aluminum nail. I held the nail with vise grips, heated it in the center with a propane torch and pushed. Only a very small flame is needed. As soon as the insert starts going in, move away from the flame. Do not push the insert in too far or else the end of the tube will mushroom. Not much heat is required. Even a lighter or candle might work, but I did not try them.
Joe

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02-27-2010, 09:34 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 165
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I thought you put the brass tube in the nylon line before you slid the compression sleeve over the line. Have I been doing this wrong?
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02-28-2010, 05:58 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Huskerland, USA
Posts: 5,862
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I would think either method would work, as long as you don't overheat the nylon.
__________________
RV-7 : In the hangar
RV-10 : In the hangar
RV-12 : Built and sold
RV-44 : 4 place helicopter on order.
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03-14-2010, 09:55 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 3,068
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brass inserts
In an article written by KEN SCOTT in the 2 - 2009 issue of RVator quoted below, is an easier way to insert the brass inserts into plastic brake lines. It is too bad that I did not read that before working on the brake lines.
Joe
Quote:
Now, working on small soft plastic parts with a
hammer just offends some people?s engineering
sensibilities. When Ken Krueger heard this, he
looked into the problem. What he found is the
plastic tubing, as manufactured, varies significantly
in wall thickness. Sometimes the inserts
will push in with your thumb, sometimes they will
actually be loose, and sometimes they fit so tightly
it seems impossible to get them in. Ken?s method
was simple and direct: drill the last ?? or so of the
tubing with a #29 twist drill. If it pulls shavings out,
the finished wall will be no thinner than the thinner
walls resulting from production variation. If it
doesn?t?well, there you are. In either case, the
insert will insert -- no boiling water necessary.
The building plans/manual will be revised to
include the ?drill bit solution?.
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06-08-2011, 09:28 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: San Angelo, Texas
Posts: 22
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 Did not fancy boilling water so I tried the heat gun approach worked well, just do not overheat.
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06-09-2011, 07:45 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: La Feria Texas
Posts: 3,822
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I must have got some proper sized tubing. I just started them in the tube, then pushed them the rest of the way by putting the brass up against a table edge. Tight, but no boiling water stuff.
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06-09-2011, 03:29 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 838
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Re: brass Inserts
I wish Ken had published that defore I did the brakes on 120241. Boiling water just did not work. I worked the tube and insert, helper appkied heat with a heat gun. We found out that there is such a thing as too much heat!
Apply heat slowly, once the tubing starts to "give" it softens quickly!
Wayne 120241
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02-05-2012, 06:55 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,647
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Seating the inserts
I've been using the boiling water method to try to get these inserts into the tube. They are TIGHT!! Can anyone tell me if the insert is meant to be completely flush with the end of the plastic tube, or just pushed in until the base of the lip contacts the the tube. Some of mine pushed in a little more easily and are flush. Others were more difficult (none were easy), and the lip or part of it is visible.
Which is correct or doesn't it matter? The instructions (27-04) say `until it bottoms against the end of the plastic tube', but it's not clear (to me anyway) if they mean the top of the lip or the base of the lip. Is it critical?
__________________
rgmwa
RV-12LR 912ULS
120346
Last edited by rgmwa : 02-05-2012 at 06:58 AM.
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02-05-2012, 07:59 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: La Feria Texas
Posts: 3,822
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They mean up against the end of the tube. I found boiling water did not help a bit actually, so adopted the "push it in" tactic. Worked very well for me and my size tubing. It needs some force to push it in, but up against a solid surface it was not too bad.
Last edited by DonFromTX : 02-05-2012 at 09:38 AM.
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02-05-2012, 09:06 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvey L. Sorensen
I thought you put the brass tube in the nylon line before you slid the compression sleeve over the line. Have I been doing this wrong?
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I always put bead on the tube, (along with the nut) first, but slide it back enough it is not in the area of the inner tub. Then insert the brass insert, and lastly slide the nut and bead toward the end of the tube, final location will be determined when you put the tubing into the fitting, bottom the plastic tube in the fitting, slide the bead, and nut forward, and tighten them down.
I find it makes things easier to put a very slight chamfer on the inside of the bead------if the bead seems to be tight on the plastic tube.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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