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02-17-2010, 05:14 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Trento, northern Italy
Posts: 621
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cowl internal finishing
I'm searching an idea to plan an internal cowl finishing then apply a cowl heat protector film.
How you did ? Have a suggestion for me ?
Thanks in advance.
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02-17-2010, 05:49 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 496
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Luke,
I shot some white Imron polyurethane paint on the inside of the cowl. It looks good. It makes it easy to clean any oil drips and reflects the heat a bit. I then stuck adhesive-backed aluminum foil over the hot spots near the outlet and exhaust pipes. You can purchase this foil from Vans.
__________________
Don Alexander
RV-8 Finished After 8 1/2 Years (2496 hours) of Loving Labor
Summerville, SC
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02-17-2010, 06:56 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Posts: 408
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Luke,
I did something similar to Tinman. After thoroughly washing I skimmed a very thin coat of epoxy (West Systems) over the inside of the entire cowl to fill some flaws and seal the surface. I lightly sanded and used high temp white engine paint on the entire inside. I then added foil to the surface near the hot spots. It's worked fine for 150 hours of flight so far.
__________________
Rocky McKiernan
Navarre, FL
N767JM RV-7 Flying
N1011D (res) RV-10 Building
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02-17-2010, 07:18 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, Ga
Posts: 7,840
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It's also a good place...
....to paint leftover resin after doing fiberglass work. You'll eventually get oil inside the cowl and a nice, slick resin-covered surface makes cleanup easy,
Best,
__________________
Pierre Smith
RV-10, 510 TT
RV6A (Sojourner) 180 HP, Catto 3 Bl (502Hrs), gone...and already missed
Air Tractor AT 502B PT 6-15 Sold
Air Tractor 402 PT-6-20 Sold
EAA Flight Advisor/CFI/Tech Counselor
Louisville, Ga
It's never skill or craftsmanship that completes airplanes, it's the will to do so,
Patrick Kenny, EAA 275132
Dues gladly paid!
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02-17-2010, 08:20 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,647
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I didn't (and won't) bother to paint the inside of the cowl (of course, mine isn't pink ...  ). I simply applied a coat of thinned west systems epoxy to seal the inner surface and then applied the shielding material directly to the cowling where desired. I went back and painted the edges of the shielding with epoxy so that oil/fuel/etc. would not seep under and cause it to lift. The epoxy surface is very easy to wipe clean.
__________________
Patrick Kelley - Flagstaff, AZ
RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
http://www.mykitlog.com/flion/
EAA Technical Counselor #5357
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02-17-2010, 10:17 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567
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Imoron
I did like Tin. Finished inside to pit/void free and shot with leftover Vestal white Imoron. Once oil leaks into glass voids its there forever.
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02-17-2010, 10:58 AM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: central oregon
Posts: 1,089
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If you wanted a heavy duty finish in a nice gray the fuel tank sealant is resistant to most solvents/ fuels/ oils.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...s/tankseal.php
edit- this is commonly used in lancairs retractable gear openings/ enclosures- it gets exposed to the elements but with the coating nothing sticks.
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nothing special here...
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02-17-2010, 05:24 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,060
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Luca,
I've finished my RV8's with high temp engine enamel, and didn't bother with the foil. I've had no issues with heat from the exhaust pipes, heck until I flared the stainless exhaust hangers from Vetterman, the pipes would occasionally slip down and ride on the lower cowl outlet. This was after the paint job. I had no scorch marks inside and no bubbling of the paint outside.
Good luck,
__________________
Jon Thocker
Habitual Offender
RV4, RV4, RV6A, RV8, RV8, RV8,RV8, RV8, RV8, RV12
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02-17-2010, 09:15 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,412
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I did similar to Rocky. I brushed in West Systems epoxy, then brushed on a coat of DP-50 black epoxy primer. It sealed well. I like the white idea for heat reflection tho-....so I'll probably top coat with white.
If you check my link you can see a pic of it, although it's not yet done.
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Scott Emery
http://gallery.eaa326.org/v/members/semery/
EAA 668340, chapter 326 & IAC chapter 67
RV-8 N89SE first flight 12/26/2013
Yak55M, and the wife has an RV-4
There is nothing-absolute nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing around with Aeroplanes
(with apologies to Ratty)
2019
Last edited by SHIPCHIEF : 02-17-2010 at 09:19 PM.
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02-18-2010, 04:34 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flion
I didn't (and won't) bother to paint the inside of the cowl (of course, mine isn't pink ...  ). I simply applied a coat of thinned west systems epoxy to seal the inner surface and then applied the shielding material directly to the cowling where desired. I went back and painted the edges of the shielding with epoxy so that oil/fuel/etc. would not seep under and cause it to lift. The epoxy surface is very easy to wipe clean.
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Same here. I thinned the epoxy 50/50 with acetone and then used a long nap 3" roller to push it into the pin holes. Three coats did the trick.
The epoxy I used was the West System quick hardening type. It is a little brown in color and when I was finished with the cowling you could see where it ran into the foam sandwiched in the cowl. It made it look a bit like cardboard. Sure makes me happy to know it is not oil collecting in there, adding weight and waiting to ooze out on my future paint job.
BTW, I did the same on my first cowl and it worked great.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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