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  #1  
Old 02-10-2010, 02:44 PM
Oscarm98 Oscarm98 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Geneva, IL
Posts: 34
Default vacuum pump removal -un-adapter plate

I have upgraded my panel to the GRT Sport and removed the plumbing for the vacuum system. I went to remove the vacuum pump and had a few drips of oil run down the accessory case. It seems there must be an option to have engine oil lubricating the vacuum pump (wet pump).

Is there an adapter plate or cover available commercially to cover that pad?

Any help would be appreciated.

Oscar
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  #2  
Old 02-11-2010, 08:28 AM
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rv9av8tr rv9av8tr is offline
 
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Default Vaccuum pad cover

Yes, there is a cover. Check Aircraft Spruce... also, any aircraft engine shop would be able to sell you one and of course you need a gasket.
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  #3  
Old 02-11-2010, 01:35 PM
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Veetail88 Veetail88 is offline
 
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Location: Hales Corners, WI
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Default I probably have one

Oscar,

I probably have one. If I can find it, it's yours.

My motor is an IO-360 that Mattituck built for me. It came with a vacuum pad cover that I removed because I put an SD-8 Alternator/dynamo on that pad.

I'll check my shop tonight.

Shoot me you're address and I'll mail it out to you.
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  #4  
Old 02-12-2010, 09:01 AM
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Veetail88 Veetail88 is offline
 
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Default Oscar

If this is the part you need, just shoot me a PM. It's yours.

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  #5  
Old 02-12-2010, 10:35 AM
agough277 agough277 is offline
 
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Location: Sandy Valley,Nevada 3L2
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Default

Make sure the oil galley supply hole is covered as the oil supply will spray into the breather inlet causing oil to be go overboard.
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  #6  
Old 03-21-2013, 01:31 AM
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ratc ratc is offline
 
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Location: North Yorkshire UK
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Default Vacuum pump removal?

I'm removing the vacuum pump and drive on an 0-320 D3G.
I have the pad cover but clearly I'll have to change the studs to shorter ones. Does anyone have a part number or source?
Is there anything else I should be considering?
Thanks all.
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  #7  
Old 03-21-2013, 07:03 AM
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Snowflake Snowflake is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ratc View Post
I'm removing the vacuum pump and drive on an 0-320 D3G.
I have the pad cover but clearly I'll have to change the studs to shorter ones. Does anyone have a part number or source?
Is there anything else I should be considering?
The poor man's alternative to changing studs is to cut four pieces of stout tubing about an inch long, and use them as very thick washers to take up the extra length of the existing studs. It doesn't have the nice "finished" look that you'd get by swapping the studs, but it's perfectly functional.

It was a couple of years ago now, but I seem to recall that I used some scrap steel pipe that was about 3/8" OD, 1/4" ID.
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  #8  
Old 03-21-2013, 07:07 AM
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rv9av8tr rv9av8tr is offline
 
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Default

Actually, that's exactly what the local engine shop recommend I do (and did). They said you don't want to end up with a broken stud!
Standoffs need to be steel so they can't "relax".
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  #9  
Old 03-21-2013, 07:09 AM
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Kahuna Kahuna is online now
 
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Default

Robs suggestion is a good one. And you can also make your own flat cover plate.
I used some aluminum hollow rod, tick walled, spacers. Had some laying around from somepthin. Glad I did too, as some years later I put on my inverted system, and backup alternator and the long studs where in place as needed. Im not a big fan of removing studs if I dont have to. I have had my share of 'issues'.
While in the ECI plant recently, I watched the pros remove a bunch, impressive to see how theirs came out like butter and mine, well, not like butter. Technique is everything.
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  #10  
Old 03-21-2013, 03:31 PM
SteinAir SteinAir is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Minneapolis
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna View Post
Robs suggestion is a good one. And you can also make your own flat cover plate.
I used some aluminum hollow rod, tick walled, spacers. Had some laying around from somepthin. Glad I did too, as some years later I put on my inverted system, and backup alternator and the long studs where in place as needed. Im not a big fan of removing studs if I dont have to. I have had my share of 'issues'.
While in the ECI plant recently, I watched the pros remove a bunch, impressive to see how theirs came out like butter and mine, well, not like butter. Technique is everything.
I would heed this advice and also echo it (easy to just fab a flat plate and a few spacers). I'd say that as much as removing studs - which is one thing that sometimes goes easily and other times causes fits, the INSTALL of new studs can also go very smoothly....or really be a big pain. Nothing worse then trying to put in a helicoil into the accesorry case with the engine installed on the plane (been there done that)!

I'd say that unless you absolutely need to have the studs removed, don't temp Mr.Murphy and leave well enough alone. Then again, you may have mother luck on your side....she usually doesn't work well with me!

Cheers,
Stein
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