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02-10-2010, 02:44 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Geneva, IL
Posts: 34
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vacuum pump removal -un-adapter plate
I have upgraded my panel to the GRT Sport and removed the plumbing for the vacuum system. I went to remove the vacuum pump and had a few drips of oil run down the accessory case. It seems there must be an option to have engine oil lubricating the vacuum pump (wet pump).
Is there an adapter plate or cover available commercially to cover that pad?
Any help would be appreciated.
Oscar
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02-11-2010, 08:28 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 827
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Vaccuum pad cover
Yes, there is a cover. Check Aircraft Spruce... also, any aircraft engine shop would be able to sell you one and of course you need a gasket.
__________________
Long-EZ built 1985 -> Sold 2007
RV-9A; N539RV First Flight: 7/2010
RV-8A N468DL 40 hr Flight Test Program
Building Log: www.mykitlog.com/n539rv
APRS Tracking: aprs.fi/n539rv
2017 Paid
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02-11-2010, 01:35 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hales Corners, WI
Posts: 981
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I probably have one
Oscar,
I probably have one. If I can find it, it's yours.
My motor is an IO-360 that Mattituck built for me. It came with a vacuum pad cover that I removed because I put an SD-8 Alternator/dynamo on that pad.
I'll check my shop tonight.
Shoot me you're address and I'll mail it out to you.
__________________
Jesse Bentley
N229Z - RV-8 - Flying - Livin' the dream!
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02-12-2010, 09:01 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hales Corners, WI
Posts: 981
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Oscar
If this is the part you need, just shoot me a PM. It's yours.

__________________
Jesse Bentley
N229Z - RV-8 - Flying - Livin' the dream!
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02-12-2010, 10:35 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sandy Valley,Nevada 3L2
Posts: 151
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Make sure the oil galley supply hole is covered as the oil supply will spray into the breather inlet causing oil to be go overboard.
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RV6A, RV7, RV6 Wing
Living with my 6A at 3L2 near Las Vegas
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03-21-2013, 01:31 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North Yorkshire UK
Posts: 152
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Vacuum pump removal?
I'm removing the vacuum pump and drive on an 0-320 D3G.
I have the pad cover but clearly I'll have to change the studs to shorter ones. Does anyone have a part number or source?
Is there anything else I should be considering?
Thanks all.
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Andy
RV-4
#4411
G-RATC
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03-21-2013, 07:03 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratc
I'm removing the vacuum pump and drive on an 0-320 D3G.
I have the pad cover but clearly I'll have to change the studs to shorter ones. Does anyone have a part number or source?
Is there anything else I should be considering?
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The poor man's alternative to changing studs is to cut four pieces of stout tubing about an inch long, and use them as very thick washers to take up the extra length of the existing studs. It doesn't have the nice "finished" look that you'd get by swapping the studs, but it's perfectly functional.
It was a couple of years ago now, but I seem to recall that I used some scrap steel pipe that was about 3/8" OD, 1/4" ID.
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Rob Prior
1996 RV-6 "Tweety" C-FRBP (formerly N196RV)
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03-21-2013, 07:07 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 827
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Actually, that's exactly what the local engine shop recommend I do (and did). They said you don't want to end up with a broken stud!
Standoffs need to be steel so they can't "relax".
__________________
Long-EZ built 1985 -> Sold 2007
RV-9A; N539RV First Flight: 7/2010
RV-8A N468DL 40 hr Flight Test Program
Building Log: www.mykitlog.com/n539rv
APRS Tracking: aprs.fi/n539rv
2017 Paid
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03-21-2013, 07:09 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Gold Hill, NC25
Posts: 2,399
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Robs suggestion is a good one. And you can also make your own flat cover plate.
I used some aluminum hollow rod, tick walled, spacers. Had some laying around from somepthin. Glad I did too, as some years later I put on my inverted system, and backup alternator and the long studs where in place as needed. Im not a big fan of removing studs if I dont have to. I have had my share of 'issues'.
While in the ECI plant recently, I watched the pros remove a bunch, impressive to see how theirs came out like butter and mine, well, not like butter. Technique is everything.
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Kahuna
6A, S8 ,
Gold Hill, NC25
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03-21-2013, 03:31 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 2,471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna
Robs suggestion is a good one. And you can also make your own flat cover plate.
I used some aluminum hollow rod, tick walled, spacers. Had some laying around from somepthin. Glad I did too, as some years later I put on my inverted system, and backup alternator and the long studs where in place as needed. Im not a big fan of removing studs if I dont have to. I have had my share of 'issues'.
While in the ECI plant recently, I watched the pros remove a bunch, impressive to see how theirs came out like butter and mine, well, not like butter. Technique is everything.
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I would heed this advice and also echo it (easy to just fab a flat plate and a few spacers). I'd say that as much as removing studs - which is one thing that sometimes goes easily and other times causes fits, the INSTALL of new studs can also go very smoothly....or really be a big pain. Nothing worse then trying to put in a helicoil into the accesorry case with the engine installed on the plane (been there done that)!
I'd say that unless you absolutely need to have the studs removed, don't temp Mr.Murphy and leave well enough alone. Then again, you may have mother luck on your side....she usually doesn't work well with me!
Cheers,
Stein
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