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  #11  
Old 01-25-2010, 05:34 PM
pmshep pmshep is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Carefree, AZ
Posts: 50
Question Gap

Only about 1/16" at the closest point.......what do you think?
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  #12  
Old 01-25-2010, 05:39 PM
JBPILOT JBPILOT is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jesup, Iowa
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Default My thoughts

I'd take a little more off the spinner plate. Altering the hood would be a nightmare for sure. Easiest route I'd guess. The spinner plate doesn't have that much to do other than hold the spinner in place at the rear.

John Bender
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  #13  
Old 01-25-2010, 05:57 PM
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Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
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Location: Huskerland, USA
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmshep View Post
Only about 1/16" at the closest point.......what do you think?
I agree with John (that hurts! ) if you have not painted the cowling yet, I would take another .015 off the spinner / back plate and call it good until you fly for a while. Then you can see if the spinner is rubbing. IMHO you'll be fine and will not require additional work. The Rotax 912 just does not jump around like the Lyclones.
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Last edited by Geico266 : 01-25-2010 at 06:06 PM.
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  #14  
Old 01-25-2010, 06:01 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmshep View Post
Only about 1/16" at the closest point.......what do you think?
On the other RV's (at least the -9), I seem to remember Vans specifying a minimum 1/8" gap between spinner and cowl.
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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 01-25-2010 at 06:04 PM.
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  #15  
Old 01-25-2010, 08:05 PM
pmshep pmshep is offline
 
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Location: Carefree, AZ
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Default Spacer

I've taken all I can on the spinner without cutting into the screws, I would like to get another 1/16 so that I have the recommended 1/8th. Any opinions on a 1/16th' spacer??Safe to add one? Does this prop drive from the lugs or friction?
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  #16  
Old 01-25-2010, 08:21 PM
JBPILOT JBPILOT is offline
 
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Location: Jesup, Iowa
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Default Opinion

IF - IF, you made an excellent spacer, you could get by I'm sure, if no other option. Were the nutplates as far forward as possible ? Likely not if you centered them. You could get another plate and spinner, but the spacer would cost less to do I'm sure. If you have 'some' clearance, it may be enough. The engine will not move back likely, I'd say.

John Bender
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  #17  
Old 01-25-2010, 08:22 PM
Mark Henderson Mark Henderson is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Napa, Calif
Posts: 274
Default Advice needed

I have not started on the cowl or spinner yet. My engine is sitting in the crate waiting. I am almost done with the canopy and was about to start trimming the cowl. I have been following this thread closely, and it sounds like the order Van's suggest may not be the best. This is not the first thread on cowl problems I have seen. I would appreciate advice from those of you who have already done this as to what you would recommend. Hang the engine then trim? Trim first and hang the engine later? To minimize the risk of a poor fit, are there any tips you can offer. Thanks in advance.
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  #18  
Old 01-25-2010, 08:29 PM
JBPILOT JBPILOT is offline
 
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Location: Jesup, Iowa
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Default Hang engine first

Us early builders followed the instructions, but if you hang the engine, and the rear spinner plate, you'd then know where you were with the cowl. The other way is like we did, and hope you do well.

John Bender
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  #19  
Old 01-25-2010, 08:39 PM
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Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
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Location: Huskerland, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Henderson View Post
I have not started on the cowl or spinner yet. My engine is sitting in the crate waiting. I am almost done with the canopy and was about to start trimming the cowl. I have been following this thread closely, and it sounds like the order Van's suggest may not be the best. This is not the first thread on cowl problems I have seen. I would appreciate advice from those of you who have already done this as to what you would recommend. Hang the engine then trim? Trim first and hang the engine later? To minimize the risk of a poor fit, are there any tips you can offer. Thanks in advance.
One of the best tips I can give is what pmshep found out. When mounting the spinner, mount the nut plates on the backing plate as far forward as you can so you can use the aft end of the spinner / back plate as a relief if you need additional clearance.

Pmshep, one of the suggestions I received from Vans was to lay up fiberglass on the inside of the cowl and they grind away little where you need more clearance, or like John said, order a new spinner and backing plate and locate the nutpates as far forward as you can.

If I had it to do over again, I would mount the engine first, fit the spinner / backing plate, then build the cowl. I've thought about this for a couple of hours and I can't see a down side to it, and you can adjust the cowl to fit the spinner.

Think it through guys, you'll be fine.

Keep us posted!
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Last edited by Geico266 : 01-25-2010 at 08:45 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-25-2010, 10:04 PM
vernhendershott vernhendershott is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Spruce Creek, FL
Posts: 370
Default

I did the cowl with the engine in place and it saved a lot of fixing as the trim lines on mine would have left about 1/16 to much material on the back (next to the firewall) and would have had the spinner a little high.

It is also good to work your way through the full process of the cowl at one time which takes having the firewall forward kit so that you will have the air duct to install and the water radiator that it must match up with. We did all of the fiberglass work at one time and that seemed to work out better as you get a feel for it and get it all done.

Best regards,
Vern
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