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  #51  
Old 01-23-2010, 03:41 PM
JBPILOT JBPILOT is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jesup, Iowa
Posts: 1,657
Default Hey Jerry

If you mixed it 10 to 1, it will set up fine. Let it set in a warm area for 3 days, then balloon test it. After 3 days, the balloon will not hurt it, and you will know how well you did.

John Bender
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  #52  
Old 01-23-2010, 05:16 PM
Peterk Peterk is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,378
Default

Hey Jerry,

John's right...you should be fine. When you do the ballon test do not use your compressor, use a bike pump or a ball hand pump...it doesn't take much. Your compressor can blow out stuff that wasn't broken.
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  #53  
Old 01-23-2010, 05:55 PM
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Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Huskerland, USA
Posts: 5,862
Default

Jerry, In cool temps it took mine a good 7 days to set up. You'll be fine.

Good luck.
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  #54  
Old 01-23-2010, 06:06 PM
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9GT 9GT is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern Michigan
Posts: 1,966
Default

I keep my shop cool so I built a temporary heat box and put the tanks in it for a few days to get the sealant cured. Took about a week before I felt confident the sealant was cured enough to do the leak test.
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  #55  
Old 01-23-2010, 06:54 PM
steve wyman steve wyman is offline
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 241
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryG150 View Post
I reworked my fuel tank today. I used the qt. sealant can and mixed it 10 to 1 using a weight watchers scale for the weight proportions. I have a hunch my sealant will never set up. I must have messed up again. A note came with the qt. sealant

"that it will take up to 3-7 days to cure and will remain soft for up to 30 days in cool weather ... be patient! Van's"

The little jars and caulking tubes of sealant I used before, set up in about 2-3hours. I'll give this stuff a few days and see if anything begins to set up. Here's hoping it does eventually set up and then doesn't leak.

I'll be very surprised and happy if all goes well. May just have to build another tank.
If worse comes to worst, Jerry, on page 4 0f this thread, "Chuckster" said he'd build one of these tanks, and leak test it for $200. It might be worth it ,to prevent the aggravation- just a thought. Steve
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  #56  
Old 01-24-2010, 10:47 AM
ARPENN ARPENN is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: West Ossipee, NH
Posts: 141
Default

I too had good luck with the sealant. I let it cure for a week, then did the air test. I did have 4 small leaks. Two screws on the access cover and one each on the balloon attachment and air valve to hose attachment. I tweeked those 4 locations with a screw driver and the balloon stayed inflated for two days. I verified this by measuring the circumfrence of the balloon with a seamstress tape.

Art Pennanen
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  #57  
Old 01-24-2010, 11:01 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,768
Default Balloons are a good test, BUT...

You guys using the balloon method of testing need to be aware that the ambient barometric pressure will affect the size of the balloon. If the barometric pressure goes down, the size of the balloon will increase. Another point is that all balloons have "some" leakage. If possible, you should inflate another balloon from the same package and compare it to the ones in the test. If both go down the same amount, you should still be good to go.
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  #58  
Old 01-24-2010, 10:01 PM
sportkid sportkid is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Garland, Texas
Posts: 60
Default

Having come upon this late I thought to add this point.
Made long-range auxillary fuel tanks for motorcycles to travel all over the world. Usually used 18ga sheet steel for crash proof, but sealed with a product called POR 15.
http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-FUEL-TA.../dp/B001NG8I86

Amazing stuff - and foolproof.

Dick
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  #59  
Old 01-25-2010, 11:28 AM
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JerryG150 JerryG150 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bradenton, Florida
Posts: 348
Default gonna wait a week!

Well I finished my redo on the gas tank yesterday. Re-riveted the top on with the help of a few larger "oops solid pop rivets" from Wicks. It's always been a problem for me to drill out rivets.

I've learned the qt. container of tank sealant from Van's Aircraft cures much more slowly then their tiny jar and caulk tube of tank sealant. When I used the small quantity containers it was so hard in an hour I had to toss whatever was remaining. With the sealant in the qt. container I can work much more slowly.

I'll wait at least a week before I test it with the balloon test kit. I've already vented the tank lid so I guess I'll cover it with a some Saran Wrap or something similar before I do the balloon test.

We'll see ...
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Last edited by JerryG150 : 01-25-2010 at 11:32 AM.
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  #60  
Old 01-25-2010, 06:56 PM
GDS GDS is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Big Bear lake, CA
Posts: 124
Default

I had a problem with mixing the sealant properly, the 1/10th on the hardener is difficult to measure because of the low weight. If you go to the Flamemaster website and look at the product spec sheet for CS3204, they recommend mixing 10 to 1.0 by weight, or 10 to 0.83 by volume. the 0.83 is not too hard to measure if you use syringes. 30CC of base material and 2.5CC of hardener makes a nice batch for one page of instructions. Get some 30CC syringes and a couple of 3CC syringes at a ranch supply or feed store, and use a band saw to cut off the front of the syringes at the first graduation. I toss the 30s and re-use the 3.
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