Metal-prep checklist

[JetMech72]

I am only working on my practice kit but am finding that I sometimes forget to do something and have to go backwards a bit. While this is gretly improving my rivet-removal skills, I'd rather get it right the first time. So...I'm trying to come up with a checklist to keep nearby to prevent this from happeneing so often. Some of these things would be as needed but does this look correct so far?

1. Remove protective plastic
2. Re-ID part with sharpie
3. Round any corners
4. Buff edges on buffing wheel
5. Drill
6. Deburr holes
7. Scotchbrite deburred holes


1-4 would be for all the metal parts, 5-7 would be for anywhere holes need to be drilled. Any comments would be appreciated!

[Buggsy2]

Originally Posted by JetMech72

I am only working on my practice kit but am finding that I sometimes forget to do something and have to go backwards a bit. While this is gretly improving my rivet-removal skills, I'd rather get it right the first time. So...I'm trying to come up with a checklist to keep nearby to prevent this from happeneing so often. Some of these things would be as needed but does this look correct so far?

1. Remove protective plastic
2. Re-ID part with sharpie
3. Round any corners
4. Buff edges on buffing wheel
5. Drill
6. Deburr holes
7. Scotchbrite deburred holes
!

Ok, comments.
1. A lot of people leave most of the plastic on 'till late in the build, usually on the larger sheet metal areas. It's easy to remove a strip of plastic by lightly running an old, heated soldering iron tip along the plastic where you want it to separate.
2. And if you're like me you'll also mark TOP/BOTTOM, I[n]B[oard], OB, etc.
4. I have the maroon and the grey ScotchBrite wheels on my bench grinder. The maroon wheel is more aggressive, good for light shaping or when edges are quite rough. The grey is for just buffing to a smooth edge.
7. Often not necessary, but probably doesn't hurt. Again you'll want at least the maroon and grey pads.

Oh, BTW. When you scotchbrite for purposes of scuffing the surface for later priming or whatever, clean it before and after with alcohol, acetone, etc. Don't scuff oil and grime into the surface by not cleaning it first...and after you'll want to clean off the Al oxide residue.

[JetMech72]

Originally Posted by Buggsy2

Ok, comments.
1. A lot of people leave most of the plastic on 'till late in the build, usually on the larger sheet metal areas. It's easy to remove a strip of plastic by lightly running an old, heated soldering iron tip along the plastic where you want it to separate.
2. And if you're like me you'll also mark TOP/BOTTOM, I[n]B[oard], OB, etc.
4. I have the maroon and the grey ScotchBrite wheels on my bench grinder. The maroon wheel is more aggressive, good for light shaping or when edges are quite rough. The grey is for just buffing to a smooth edge.
7. Often not necessary, but probably doesn't hurt. Again you'll want at least the maroon and grey pads.

Oh, BTW. When you scotchbrite for purposes of scuffing the surface for later priming or whatever, clean it before and after with alcohol, acetone, etc. Don't scuff oil and grime into the surface by not cleaning it first...and after you'll want to clean off the Al oxide residue.

1. I'm still undecided on this but for now the whole thing is coming off.
2. Good point
4. I only have the grey one, for now files are working well enough for me on the heavy stuff.
7. Just to make sure any burrs or shavings are gone. I also have a soft paintbrush to get them off as I was getting too many embedded into my fingers.

For priming I'll probably make myself another checklist, but that's not a bad idea to pre-clean before scuffing.
Thanks!