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  #1  
Old 12-28-2009, 09:38 PM
rwarre rwarre is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Wray, Co
Posts: 584
Default help with ammeter

I have my ammeter connected according to the Z11 diagram from Nickoll's book. With the engine running, the ammeter doesn't seem to be operating. The needle stays to the far left (negative) position. Any thoughts on troubleshooting. Thanks
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  #2  
Old 12-28-2009, 11:44 PM
Stevea Stevea is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 113
Default

Sounds like you are using a -60 / 0 / 60 amp style gage.

An ammeter setup as Nickoll's shows in the Z11 system is working as an alternator load meter, meaning it should read from 0 (alternator turned off) to some positive number (alternator on and electrical loads turned on). Reverse the wires between the shunt and the gage to make the gage read 0 to positive.
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  #3  
Old 12-29-2009, 05:10 AM
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rzbill rzbill is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,690
Default If the needle is pegged.

Reverse the meter wires like Steve says. That should take care of the polarity problem. However, if the needle is pegged aganst the stop, I can list some things to cause it (maybe not all things).

1) There really is that much current because something else is wrong. (least likely)

2) The meter is toast.

3) The meter and shunt are mismatched ( for example 60A meter and 30A shunt would cause 2x error). The shunt is designed to give full meter voltage at its max rating. The meter is designed to accept full meter voltage at max indication. Small shunt will cause high reading on large meter. It would take a fairly significant mismatch to peg the needle so this may not be it.

4) There is a short to aircraft frame ground in the "return" line between shunt and meter. This will cause full 12V at the meter terminals and "Peg" the needle. Since I am not an electrical wizard and didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, it escapes me how I would confidently check this with a multimeter. The brute force approach would be to fabricate a pair of external wires between the shunt and meter. Disconnect the old wires and use the new ones to debug. (EDIT - I think this can be proved by disconnecting the "ground side" meter line at the shunt. The meter should stop working. If it does not, there is a short to AC frame in that line)

5) Shunt is broken (this should be evident in other ways).

Hope this helps.
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Last edited by rzbill : 12-29-2009 at 05:22 AM.
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