Dynon EMS firewall penetrations

[Skint]

I would appreciate input on where to penetrate the firewall to run the EMS harness in a carburetted 0-360 7a.
Also, comments on Vans technique for sealing firewall penetrations ( ie grommets and RTV)

Thanks
Engine due to ship Jan 20..yippee

[SteinAir]

Hi Tim,

There isn't a universal spot that is best for everyone. It really depends on where you intend to mount the engine monitor portion of the system. If using the skyview engine module you also have some flexibility there. If it's on the pilots side, then that's where to run them through..same if it's on the other side. Run the EGT/CHT through one penetration and the sensor wires through another. How you do it is almost like primers/taildragger/sliding canopy, but as long as you keep the wires protected and the hole sealed you'll be good! Best to keep them on the upper portion of the firewall just for ease of maintenance/routing.

Cheers,
Stein

[N941WR]

Tim,

Stein make some good points.

One thing to think about is putting those penetrations close to the engine mount tubes so you can use them to support the wires with adel clamps.

Just make sure you don't put those holes over the battery or anything else there for that matter. Later on you might not be able to get the battery out.

Here is a picture of where I ran mine and how I supported the wires. The black tube is the vacuum lines for my dual P-mags.

BTW, I have a Dynon D10 EMS mounted on the right side, centered in front of the passenger's seat.

[Skint]

Thank you, Guys!

[rv7charlie]

There are some ideas on how to do the penetration on the Aeroelectric Connection site.

One of the ideas used by quite a few builders is intumescent caulk instead of RTV (google 'fire rated caulk').

Charlie

[RFazio]

Tim, I didn't do it because I didn't think of it untill later, But if you run all your exhaust gas temps through one central hole it makes it easy to swap them for comparisons. Keep all the lengths the same and lose the slack under the cowl. Now once your flying and cylinder 1 is cooler than all the others you can easily swap 1 and any other to see if it's the probe or actually the cylinder. Do the same with cylinder head temps. I'm sorry I didn't do this cause now I'm re routing wiring under my panel and by the engine to check my probes.

[BJohnson]

Stein above recommended passing the sensor wires through a separate hole from the TC's. Why is this necessary? The TC's carry a DC voltage with no current. Aren't the rest carrying a DC current, with the exception of a the rpm sensors, which are carrying approx 8kHz pulses?