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  #1  
Old 01-17-2006, 03:32 PM
jchang10 jchang10 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Francisco, CA
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Default Countersinking Technique Tips?

Hi Everyone,

I just wanted to verify my countersinking technique before diving in.

Should I adjust the countersinking tool so that a flush rivet sits just slightly up above the surface, knowing that the rivet will get squeezed flush with the skin when riveted?

IE, i should err on the side of countersinking too little than too much. THe deper the countersink hole is, the rivet may risk sitting too lose in its hole?

Thanks,
Jae
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  #2  
Old 01-17-2006, 03:57 PM
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dan dan is offline
 
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Default flush

Nope, make it sit flush. Practice several times until you get it where you want it. Creep up on it to avoid c-sinking too deep.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (774 hours)
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  #3  
Old 01-17-2006, 05:00 PM
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RV7Factory RV7Factory is offline
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Location: Livermore, CA
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Default

Jae, what I did was pick up a 3'x1"x1/8" piece of AL bar at OSH for testing my CS depth. When I need to countersink, I just drill a several holes in my test piece and then test my countersink depth on them, making adjustments before I CS pricey aircraft parts.

When I started, I must have countersunk 30-40 holes in the scrap before I got the courage to touch the kit with the CS.

One more thing... try to countersink with something behind the piece such as a piece of wood or similar. You should drill the wood with a hole to accept the pilot of the countersink cutter, as this will help keep your holes nice and round. If you don't have something to guide the pilot, the cutter can wander and you can end up with an egg shaped countersink.
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Last edited by RV7Factory : 01-17-2006 at 05:16 PM.
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  #4  
Old 01-17-2006, 05:25 PM
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aparchment aparchment is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: South Hamilton, MA
Posts: 521
Default mark countersink

I have been thinking of marking the side of my countersink with two different colored dots for each type of rivet or screw we use so that I can just match the dots and be ready to go rather than doing the creap technique that is the logical alternative. Does anyone see a reason this wouldn't work?

Antony
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2006, 05:38 PM
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RV7Factory RV7Factory is offline
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I thought about doing this too. Since it could be off by 360-degree increments on the countersink gauge and I would still want to test the depth beforehand, I decided it really wouldn't do anything other than give me a place to start my testing.
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  #6  
Old 01-17-2006, 05:45 PM
jchang10 jchang10 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Francisco, CA
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Default Thanks again

Everone... thanks for the excellent tips. i should have tested on some scrap like you said. oh well, i will see what effect having too deep a countersunk hole does.

i was just caught off guard by the variability of the depth based on several factors: downward pressure, alignment, and sensitivity of the cage. i thought 90deg turns were fine enough, but i see i should use finer increments.

jae
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  #7  
Old 01-17-2006, 10:34 PM
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jsherblon jsherblon is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Stuck in Lodi CA
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Default Drill press

In addition to using the AL scrap to test drill, I use the drill press to countersink if there's any way possible. For me, the drill press is much more consistent than a hand held drill when c'sinking. I use a piece of scrap particle board with a 1" center hole clamped to the drill press table as my backing surface.
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  #8  
Old 01-18-2006, 11:31 AM
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aparchment aparchment is offline
 
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Default alignment dots

Good point Brad.

Antony
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