what's next?

hydroguy2 · #1 12-22-2009, 02:14 PM

got the engine hung today. and now what?

I'm thinking hang the prop, so I can figure out the cowling. Can someone point me to the correct procedure for installing a prop and prop spacer?

noelf · #2 12-22-2009, 02:27 PM

...you need to align the alternator pulley with the ring gear pulley first.

Next would be the prop spacer and back plate. Van's web site has a procedure for simulating this.

Next would be the top and then bottom cowl.

Then you get to have fun installing and trimming the baffles.

hydroguy2 · #3 12-22-2009, 02:31 PM

ring gear is loose right now, waiting for bolts

fstringham7a · #4 12-22-2009, 04:16 PM

Hi Brian

Great Progress.

Now the fun begins........

Have a Merry Christmas up there in snow country!!!!!!

Frank @ 1L8 ... RV7A ... Flying

yakdriver · #5 12-22-2009, 04:43 PM

Brian, Run all the fuel/oil lines, Throttle,mix,prop control, probes and electrical. Check your exhaust to make sure everything fits. You really shouldn't try and fit the cowl until you have the front deck riveted down and the flanges or hinge around the firewall for the cowl mounts. (told ya not to put those lower engine mount bolts in

). It is a lot easier to rivet all that stuff with the engine and mount off. If you are going to use the James plenum go ahead and build up the baffling also. If you can bolt the spinner backplate to the spacer there is no need to put the prop on to fit the cowl. Your comming up on all the joyfull things in the build now. Cowl fitting, canopy, windshield oh its just so fun, NOT. Keep tuckin it looks great. Don

hydroguy2 · #6 12-22-2009, 05:03 PM

Hey Don, Guess I should have waited...Prop is on(temporary), but with the WW prop there is no way to attach the backing plate to the spacer without the prop. Oh well, it was so quick it'll be no big deal pulling it off. I plan on it anyway. Same with the engine and mount. To hang the engine and prop today I haven't spent 2 hrs.

I thought lots of people did there cowl before the top skin was riveted in place

I've got most of my wiring stuff, So could finish the forward wire runs and get to riveting. Canopy is 95% complete, also.

JonJay · #7 12-22-2009, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hydroguy2

Hey Don, Guess I should have waited...Prop is on(temporary), but with the WW prop there is no way to attach the backing plate to the spacer without the prop. Oh well, it was so quick it'll be no big deal pulling it off. I plan on it anyway. Same with the engine and mount. To hang the engine and prop today I haven't spent 2 hrs.

I thought lots of people did there cowl before the top skin was riveted in place

I've got most of my wiring stuff, So could finish the forward wire runs and get to riveting. Canopy is 95% complete, also.

You might find the need to shim the hinges so it is best to leave that top skin off until the very last. It looks like you have a lot of FWF wiring to do as well so access under that top skin makes things a lot easier. No problem riveting around the firewall. The squeezer with a small 1" yoke reaches everything. Remember you need to rivet the top skin so plan your wiring under that area to insure you can get a bucking bar in there.
You absolutely need the prop to fit the cowl unless you follow Vans instructions to simulate it. Be very careful if you do and measure against your hub to insure the instructions are accurate. They have not been in the past.

flion · #8 12-22-2009, 09:39 PM

Looks to me like you need to remove the engine so you can send the motor mount out to be powder coated yellow to match ...

Ok, kidding aside, you should not attempt to fit the cowl until that deck skin is in place. Easier to trim fiberglass than aluminum. Besides, you want at least the unmovables in place so you can check clearances. Fit the exhaust, carb/FI servo, baffling, things of that nature. You can also get a lot of your FWF wiring done as long as you are sure it won't be near the cowl. Once you've got the deck on and the cowl fitted, you will probably be a lot happier if you remove that prop. Not only does it make it difficult to work around the engine but it also risks getting nicked. You really don't need it to fit the cowl if you use some standoffs and a piece of plywood to simulate the backplate. The prop was the very last item installed on my plane before it's first engine run.

rv9av8tr · #9 12-22-2009, 10:50 PM

I just finished my FWF with a tip-up canopy. I would strongly suggest you NOT rivet that forward skin on until all your FW penetrations and FWF electrical is completed. You can easily cleco that skin in place while fitting the cowl. That forward deck skin needs to be the LAST skin you permanently put in place.

You can see the order of my FWF progress here: http://picasaweb.google.com/mikerv9a/FWF#

Good luck and have fun!

Pat Stewart · #10 12-23-2009, 06:15 AM

Install Last, here is why.

1. You will end up rotating it to get it out of the way to facilitate other maintenance.

2. It has a chance of getting nicked while building.

3, If your engine is preserved make sure you remove the plugs before you rotate or you may have serious damage.

4. Rotating will clean oil off the cylinder walls leaving them unprotected during your remaining build time.

5. Install exhaust, wiring, accessory's and baffles first.

6, Installing the forward skin and trimming the cowling's should be the last step for completing the fuselage, except for the windscreen.

I am not sure of any reason to put the prop on early but I'm sure others will chime in.

My 2 cents.

Pat