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  #1  
Old 12-14-2009, 09:48 PM
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aarvig aarvig is offline
 
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Location: KANE, Hugo, Minnesota
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Default Deburring

I am ordering my tools and I wanted to know what everyone recommends for a deburring tool since this will obviously be a highly repetitive operation. Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 12-14-2009, 10:28 PM
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Greg Arehart Greg Arehart is offline
 
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I used a countersink bit with a hexagonal driver in my small electric screwdriver. The Harbor Freight ones don't last very long, so get a decent bit from somewhere else.

greg
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  #3  
Old 12-14-2009, 11:04 PM
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I have a "Speed Deburring Tool" from Avery and I use it all the time. Quick and easy - one turn (or less) per hole usually does it.

http://www.averytools.com/p-73-speed...ring-tool.aspx
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  #4  
Old 12-14-2009, 11:11 PM
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Snowflake Snowflake is offline
 
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
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One of Vans' employees at Arlington told me that they just use Scotchbrite pads. Run one along a rivet line, and it removes any burrs that stick up from the skins. Loads faster than using a per-hole tool. Only a bad idea if you want to have a polished finish on your airplane, 'cause those scotchbrite scratches will be a pain to buff out.
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  #5  
Old 12-15-2009, 05:54 AM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Location: Tampa, FL
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Default +1 on the cordless

Another vote for the hex adapter in a cordless screwdriver (B&D in my case). A quick blip of the switch gives me 1.5 - 2 revs of the bit which is plenty for a hole. Get into a groove and bingo, the job is done.
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  #6  
Old 12-15-2009, 06:02 AM
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apkp777 apkp777 is offline
 
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A rosebud countersink/deburring tool chucked up in a cordless drill will give you a perfect debur. Works very well on stainless and plexiglass as well. The "in and out" (aka cogsdill) deburing tool is amazing. Works best on heavier gauge holes. I would stay away from the scotchbrite technique as you will remove the ALCLAD and promote corrosion if not treated and primed in a timely manner. If you do use scotchbrite use blue discs only.


http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,5935.html

http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,5647.html
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  #7  
Old 12-15-2009, 06:49 AM
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Flyguytki Flyguytki is offline
 
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Where are you guys getting your hex drivers to put into the electric screw drivers??
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  #8  
Old 12-15-2009, 07:09 AM
chaskuss chaskuss is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Florida
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Default Tim Allen was right! More power!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowflake View Post
One of Vans' employees at Arlington told me that they just use Scotchbrite pads. Run one along a rivet line, and it removes any burrs that stick up from the skins. Loads faster than using a per-hole tool. Only a bad idea if you want to have a polished finish on your airplane, 'cause those ScotchBrite scratches will be a pain to buff out.
ScotchBrite with a power tool is even easier. See

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...32&postcount=9

&

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...7&postcount=27

De-burring with the blue colored ScotchBrite discs will not leave scratches like the maroon pads or discs do.

Charlie Kuss
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  #9  
Old 12-15-2009, 07:12 AM
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mikehoover mikehoover is offline
 
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Default

One more vote for the hex deburring tool:
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/p...sp?number=DB04

I use this almost exclusively for deburring rivet holes. I use it by hand or in my cordless drill. It doesn't gouge out the hole unless you press hard. You can also countersink a rivet hole very nicely. If you only have a few holes to countersink, it saves time versus setting up the microstop countersink.

I also have the quick debur tool that came with the Avery's tool kit. I do not use it much. It is too easy to gouge out the rivet holes. But it does come in handy sometimes:
http://www.averytools.com/p-73-speed...ring-tool.aspx

Also, the edge deburr tool it great for deburring edges and lightening holes, etc.
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/p...p?number=DBS33

Happy building!
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:39 AM
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flion flion is offline
 
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Location: Flagstaff, AZ
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I'm glad someone finally mentioned edge deburring. A scotchbrite wheel is great for polishing edges on thicker parts but can be a pain (literally, if you're not careful) for thin, flexible pieces such as ribs or skins. I personally use the two-edge from Avery but I keep meaning to get the one they refer to as the 'dove-tail' tool; if you slip with the former tool you tend to slice your fingers.

The key, in any case, is to use light pressure. I use the speed tool from Avery without any problem now but it took awhile to get the touch down. Same with the edge deburrers; you are trying to polish off a burr not shave down an edge. Don't try to do it all in one pass.
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