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12-09-2009, 04:21 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: York, England
Posts: 381
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Master Switch Probs
I?m having a problem with wiring my master switch and battery contactor relay, lots of nasty smells and a very hot ground wire!:
The wiring to the relay is conventional;
* Power in from battery to connection 3 (L/H side)
* Power out to main bus from connection 1 (R/H side)
* Master Switch wired to connection 2 (central connection).
When the battery on/off switch is grounded, the ground wire gets incredibly hot, so hot that I daren?t leave it, also no power to the main bus. I've rerun the wires and and re-read my electric books etc but I can?t think of or see anything obviously wrong with this setup so why am I experiencing this problem?.
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Emp painted, wings painted, finishing the fiberglass work on the fuse and then ready for painting.....
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12-09-2009, 04:48 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,523
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Diode pointing in wrong direction? Do you have one between battery post and "switch" (small) post? If that one's pointing in wrong direction... it'd be bad 
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Radomir
RV-7A sold
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12-09-2009, 05:09 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: York, England
Posts: 381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radomir
Diode pointing in wrong direction? Do you have one between battery post and "switch" (small) post? If that one's pointing in wrong direction... it'd be bad 
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I thought that might be the problem but when checking, the diode is wired in such a way that it can only be fitted to the connector one way, i.e. the battery post has a large connection and the switch post has a small connection. The only other possibility is that the diode has been wired wrong to the connectors, what is the way of checking the diode direction ?
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Emp painted, wings painted, finishing the fiberglass work on the fuse and then ready for painting.....
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12-09-2009, 08:32 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,523
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Best way to check it is to remove it and see if problem persists 
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Radomir
RV-7A sold
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12-09-2009, 08:37 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 736
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Tap the relay top with a screwdriver, the contactor may be stuck...if it starts to work normally then replace it.
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Rick Sked
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12-10-2009, 02:13 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: York, England
Posts: 381
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Thanks
I'll try tapping it and let you know the outcome.
Thanks again
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Emp painted, wings painted, finishing the fiberglass work on the fuse and then ready for painting.....
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12-10-2009, 06:47 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
Posts: 4,514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shiney
I'll try tapping it and let you know the outcome.
Thanks again
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That probably won't do it.
There's something really screwed up here, the wire coming from the master switch to the relay should NOT be getting hot much less warm. It is a simple connection to ground to get the relay to close. Considering the symptoms, a very hot wire, the wire is being connected to a 12v dc power source either at the master switch or from within the relay with a faulty contactor mechanism or through one of the diodes.
Check the master switch source wire. Be sure it is ground and not something else.
Check the master relay to be sure it is continuous duty and not a starter relay. The master relay is closed by a ground signal, the start relay is closed by 12v dc. Check that what you call pin 2 is NOT shorted to either pin 1 or pin 3. If it is, the relay itself could be bad or one of the diodes is bad or installed wrong.
Get rid of all the diodes for a check of the system. I know there are electric theories why we use them but they are a point of failure.
(I've used them in the past but the present set up does not have them. As near as I can tell, they are not used in the certified world, just here with experimental airplanes.)
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RV-7A...Sold #70374
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12-10-2009, 07:51 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 736
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Might not...did for me...The relay had stuck somehow and when I went to connect the batteries I got a HUGE surprise. Sparks galore, welding action near the cable terminals. An old hat who was helping me do final assemble, grabbed a screw driver tapped the top of the relay and everything worked fine...go figure.
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Rick Sked
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12-10-2009, 08:13 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David-aviator
As near as I can tell, they are not used in the certified world, just here with experimental airplanes.)
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My Cessna has them on both the Master and the started solenoids.
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12-10-2009, 08:15 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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Diode Check
Quote:
Originally Posted by shiney
what is the way of checking the diode direction ?
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Most DVM's or multimeters have a diode check feature. No matter, you can check with a standard ohm meter. Current flows only one way in a diode. Connect the positive side of your ohm meter to the positive side of the diode and you should see very little resistance. Reverse the leads and you should see high or infinite resistance. Also, when power is hooked up, you should get a .7vdc drop across the diode.
Regardless, now that you have "lots of nasty smells", once you figure out where the problem lies, it would be prudent to replace all devices, master switch, relay, and wiring. You never know what you have smoked or weakened.
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Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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