BMA to Dynon Upgrade

[JonJay]

I recently completed the change out from my BMA G3 to a new Dynon. My decision to go with Dynon was pretty simple, it fit into the instrument cut out. Part of the upgrade included removal of the auto pilot as well as a remote magnesyn (seemed like a good idea at the time?), netting a loss of 16 lbs to the aircraft. I left the Ap wiring in place so I can put an AP back in the future if I so choose, but for now, I am enjoying the diet. The BMA Ap was so unreliable that I never used it anyway.
The change out was pretty simple considering there was an existing harness from the BMA system. I bought the Stien Air Harness, removed the remote compass part of it, repinned my existing wires and put it back together. Same for the GTX327 and SL30. Simple repinning for the most part and redressing some wiring.
The Dynon lit to life first try and everything worked. Put the aircraft back into Phase 1 and a quick call to the FISDO cleared me for my test area.
Here is a pic of the work in progress, the completed job, and a sad pic of what came out.
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[N941WR]

Good write up!

One question, do you need to contact the FSDO when doing a panel upgrade?

I suspect if that is the case, there are a lot of illegal EAB's out there flying around.

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by N941WR

Good write up!

One question, do you need to contact the FSDO when doing a panel upgrade?

I suspect if that is the case, there are a lot of illegal EAB's out there flying around.

With Mel's help - Your operating limitations will dictate. Mine stated that any major modifications required putting the aircraft back into Phase I for five hours and to contact my FISDO with my intent and operating area. The reason it was a major modification was that I disconnect the AP Servo's and associatd linkages. Anything that involved messing with the control system is considered major.

[JonJay]

I know there are a lot of discussions in regard to accessing behind a fixed panel. For the 6/7/9 it is actually relatively easy if you do not have a center console and if you have the fire wall mounted battery. Simply take out the passenger seat back and cushion and you can put your feet into the baggage area and slide your head and shoulders under the panel.
When I built my panel and associated components I tried to insure that all fasteners where accessible from below before I buttoned up the top skin. In my case, removing the engine monitor, dropping the control cable assy down, and removing an instrument or two allows for access to everything front, back, and underneath. This takes less than 15 minutes.
Think about these things as you start bolting down stuff like terminal strips, wiring harness clamps, etc... you will thank yourself later.
This upgrade was relatively easy.

[TSwezey]

How long did the process of swapping take? I will be doing it in two to three months.

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by TSwezey

How long did the process of swapping take? I will be doing it in two to three months.

My times are a bit skewed because I removed an old Magnesyn, Indicator, and Invertor, cleaned up my 496 WX head wiring to go through the panel (tough splicing #28 wires, but you can), and permanently mounting the WX antenna (metric screws by the way, not standard like the GPS head, silly).
I picked away at all of it for about a week. I would guess around 15-20 hours of actual work, 10 or 12 of it on the BMA/Dynon stuff.
I did not re-install the AP, just took out the servos and left the harness in place for future. I would double the time if you are going to install the AP and servos. I did install the new Remote Compass and OAT. I mounted it under the Elevator and routed the wires along my trim cable to the remote compass location behind my baggage compartment where the BMA unit was. Repinned the harness with new connector, so no running of any new wires. That would add some serious time if you had to run new through the tunnel.
A nice difference, other than it actually works, is the alt. encoder is serial if your transponder will take a serial source. The BMA was grey code. That elliminated a lot of wires. The SL30 xface also only required one wire. So, one wire to a spdt switch from the SL30 and one wire from the 496, and one wire back to the Dynon and you have your GPS or Nav signal with disconnect. Very slick.
If you are dealing with an existing harness, make sure you get a good supply of D-Sub pins so you can repin. The BMA connectors where exactly opposite sex than the Dynon. Make sure you have a good crimper for D-subs.
If you are only changing out the BMA EFIS, you could get that job done in a couple hours, three or four at the most.
I think you will find it goes pretty easily. Good luck.
( 5 hours flown off and out of Phase I, everything works great.)

[TSwezey]

Thanks for the info. We are going to put one for now where the 6-pack back up instruments are then swap out the BMA at a later date.

[kentb]

Originally Posted by JonJay

Simply take out the passenger seat back and cushion and you can put your feet into the baggage area and slide your head and shoulders under the panel.

I now don't remove anything except for the PAX stick. I have found that if I just slid across both seats and put my feet over the side (usually the passenger side) I can slide under the panel with ease. The only problem is the fuel selector in my back, so I put something soft over it.

Kent

[Steve A]

I realize this is slightly off your topic, but I have the BMA Sport and with the company OOB and the fact the BMA never worked very well, I am considering replacing it with the Dynon Skyview with synthetic vision software. THe hole is slightly larger for the Dynon. I am going to have to take the wire coming in from the SL 30, replace the magnetometer in the back. In general more work than you had to do but Dynon is giving BMA owners $1000 credit. I already have a dynon as my primary with the BMA as backup.

S S Anderson
RV 7A
82 hours flying