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  #1  
Old 11-25-2009, 08:52 PM
Veetail88's Avatar
Veetail88 Veetail88 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hales Corners, WI
Posts: 981
Default Lousy cowl fit

Hey folks, is this at all normal or common for a really lousy fitting cowl?

I have the back sides fitted to the firewall at the top and bottom.

From this side, it looks like the centerline of my motor is an inch or so too high, but I know that's not likely possible.


By veetail88

The other side isn't as bad, but still not good.


By veetail88

It seems to me like I'm going to have to build up 1/2" of fiberglass on the inside of the cowl face at the spinner and really grind the heck out of the thing to make the contour and fit correct.

Anyone seen this? Is there an easier fix? Am I missing something and really messing up my cowl?

Help!!
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  #2  
Old 11-25-2009, 09:11 PM
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flion flion is offline
 
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Location: Flagstaff, AZ
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Default

You should be fitting from the spinner back. Fit the lower cowl so that there is an even gap at the spinner and then trim the cowl to the firewall. Next, fit the upper cowl to match the lower at the spinner, trim as necessary to get the top/bottom interface to work (mine needed nothing but there can be some variation) and finally trim at the firewall. It's an iterative process; with the upper cowl resting on the forward deck, it may not be easy to get a perfect fit with the lower cowl until the firewall trimming is done but you can get pretty close.
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  #3  
Old 11-25-2009, 09:13 PM
nucleus nucleus is offline
 
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Location: Bozeman, Montana
Posts: 858
Default Caution

I have only fitted one cowl in my life, but you are doing it backwards from the way I did it, which was:

First I fitted the two halves together in the front, letting the back portions go where they may overlapping the fuselage. Everything was based on aligning the front first, then trimming everything else to fit.

From your pictures and text it sounds like you fitted the cowl to the fuselage as is... Fit the front and then trim it so it fits the fuselage.

Hans
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  #4  
Old 11-25-2009, 09:24 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,027
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flion View Post
You should be fitting from the spinner back. Fit the lower cowl so that there is an even gap at the spinner and then trim the cowl to the firewall. Next, fit the upper cowl to match the lower at the spinner, trim as necessary to get the top/bottom interface to work (mine needed nothing but there can be some variation) and finally trim at the firewall. It's an iterative process; with the upper cowl resting on the forward deck, it may not be easy to get a perfect fit with the lower cowl until the firewall trimming is done but you can get pretty close.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nucleus View Post
I have only fitted one cowl in my life, but you are doing it backwards from the way I did it, which was:

First I fitted the two halves together in the front, letting the back portions go where they may overlapping the fuselage. Everything was based on aligning the front first, then trimming everything else to fit.

From your pictures and text it sounds like you fitted the cowl to the fuselage as is... Fit the front and then trim it so it fits the fuselage.

Hans
What they said....
You need to align the cowl at the front (each half with each other and with the spinner), then trim as needed at the back.
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  #5  
Old 11-26-2009, 06:21 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Details vary between builders, but here is the general idea:



13" disk, straight edge, two little sheet metal strip gauges. Keep working the nose until it is 13"D with equal halves, and has equal inlet openings.
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  #6  
Old 11-26-2009, 07:31 AM
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burgundyja burgundyja is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: maple grove,mn
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Default

when i put my two halfs together they did not fit well. i had to sand alot of filler out of the female half to get the male half to fit over it. then even after all of that on the two outside edges of the inlets on lines up good and the other one is almost a 1/4 inch diffrent i did do the method of fitting the front then triming the back.
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  #7  
Old 11-26-2009, 07:59 AM
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twsurveyor twsurveyor is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ridgetop, Tennessee
Posts: 134
Default Cowl Fit

The botton half of mine fit but the top half nose ring was tilted forward. It had a perfect 3/16" space where it mated to the bottom ring but was rubbing the spinner at the top. 1st thought was to build it up inside (top nose ring) w/ glass & filler and grind it to fit. Seemed like "too much sugar for a dime", so I cut the upper nose ring completly off and re-glassed it for a perfect fit.

After my experence, I take note of other RV's nosering/spinner fit and have seen a bunch with the same (uncorrected) problem I had.

To me, the cowl was the worst, most labor intensive, part of building the whole plane. I spent 50 hours on it after it was finished!!!

Tommy Walker
RV-6A, N 350 TW
475 hrs & "Climbing"!
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  #8  
Old 11-26-2009, 08:55 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,208
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by twsurveyor View Post
The botton half of mine fit but the top half nose ring was tilted forward. It had a perfect 3/16" space where it mated to the bottom ring but was rubbing the spinner at the top. 1st thought was to build it up inside (top nose ring) w/ glass & filler and grind it to fit. Seemed like "too much sugar for a dime", so I cut the upper nose ring completly off and re-glassed it for a perfect fit.

After my experence, I take note of other RV's nosering/spinner fit and have seen a bunch with the same (uncorrected) problem I had.

To me, the cowl was the worst, most labor intensive, part of building the whole plane. I spent 50 hours on it after it was finished!!!

Tommy Walker
RV-6A, N 350 TW
475 hrs & "Climbing"!
Back in prehistoric days, we were told to install the top cowl first, then fit the bottom cowl to the top. That way, you get the top (most visible) surface properly aligned and work away from that. I've always thought the face of the cowl that fits against the spinner was intentionally built with a face that sloped away from the spinner so you have a larger gap at the bottom than the top. That makes it easier to remove the bottom cowl.
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  #9  
Old 11-26-2009, 09:05 AM
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dsmithlib dsmithlib is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Libertyville, Illinois
Posts: 54
Default Yes, similar problem.....

I read all the posts and did my best yet had a very similar problem. I did work from the front but, I was never able to completely eliminate the alignment issues you have.

Your current photos look more exaggerated than what I ended up with. But, I did need to glass up in several areas to make it look pretty. I also thought the canopy was the hardest-until I worked the cowl.

If you follow my blog link below and look at all the picutres with pink in them.......you will notice that I was patching up those same spots you are fighting. First, I put in some tapes to build it up. Then, I think I inished with Rage or balloons. It will need a little more work at painting time but, its about 95% OK.
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Last edited by dsmithlib : 11-26-2009 at 09:11 AM.
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  #10  
Old 11-26-2009, 09:12 AM
Steve Steve is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Roy, Utah
Posts: 1,141
Default my $.02

Before even putting the cowl on the airframe:
I had to sand and scrape away excess material from the inside forward area of the top cowl to get a decent fit to the bottom cowl. I also had to work the overlap flanges on the lower cowl inlet area.
Modify/trim the cowl for hinges or camlocks.
Install the ring gear/prop/spacers/bulkheads/spinner.
Fit the top cowl to the aircraft.
Fit the bottom cowl.
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