Tip Up F-774 Front Rivets - Page 2

roee · #11 11-03-2009, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmjula

Those cherry max rivets are 1/8 rivets. They wont work with out modifying the holes and dimple (or countersink).

That's right... I forgot. I drilled and dimpled mine for 1/8", but boom3's are already dimpled for 3/32". Ughh...

So maybe the CCR264 "nutplate rivets" would be a good solution. I actually don't think that tensile strength would be much of an issue here, especially given that there are also two #8 screws right above securing the skin to the roll bar. But I'll be curious to hear what Van's says.

Rupester · #12 11-03-2009, 07:25 PM

If I'm not mistaken the CR 3212-4-6 work perfectly there. I used a couple of those further forward on places that the QB folks forgot. Those holes too were in locations where I could see 'em only w/a mirror and could not buck them dependably. I countersunk the holes at 100 degrees (after I drilled 'em out to #30) in the fuse side/ canopy deck and the 3212's fit perfectly. Other than a tiny hole in the center, they fit as well as solid rivets. I bought extras of those rivets to put in the F-774 locations you're talking about.

roee · #13 11-04-2009, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rupester

If I'm not mistaken the CR 3212-4-6 work perfectly there.

Be sure to check the CherryMax grip length chart (or use a gauge). CherryMax rivets are very particular about their grip length ranges. I think -6 is too long here. I could be mistaken so don't take my word for it, but be sure to check for yourself.

Gotcha: Beware that the dash number of a CherryMax rivet is not the same as the dash number of the solid rivet that it would replace. The dash number of a solid (AN426) rivet specifies the overall length of the rivet before squeezing/driving it. The dash number of a CherryMax rivet specifies the maximum grip length.

boom3 · #14 11-04-2009, 05:15 AM

Since I have the cherry max rivets ordered, I may still be able to use them by drilling to 1/8, dimpling the F-774 skin and machine countersinking the side skin and longeron.

(Kind of like the empennage gap cover F-794A, only those are #6 screws.)

I'll see what Van's says.

boom3 · #15 11-04-2009, 11:17 AM

Just got an email back from Van's and they said, are you ready for this....?????

3/32 blind rivets are what you'd need. Any would do, but we don't sell them in that length, and they're not commonly available. Try someone like

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/default.asp

I think I'm going to look into those nut plate rivets as they are 3/32 and I won't have to drill, re-dimple or countersink.

RV7Factory · #16 11-04-2009, 11:52 AM

HA! It's like they've been following along.

I like to support Tom (VAF: GAHco) any chance I get, but you may have to buy them in larger quantities than you'll need. If so, I would be interested in buying a few from you to help reduce your overall costs.

Otherwise Wick's sells them in smaller quantities.

Pmerems · #17 11-05-2009, 09:03 PM

Here is what I did.

I knew this area was going to be problematic. I cut reliefs in the 3/16 angle where the shop head of the rivets would be (as the original poster did). I drilled and countersunk the longeron angle to accept the #3 rivet dimpled skin per the plans. I opened the hole up to 1/8" but left the #3 dimple in the skin as is. I then took a 1/8" (#4 rivet size) Cherrymax rivet of the right length and removed the mandrel. Filled down the head of the Cherrymax to the same head diameter of a 426 #3 rivet, reassembled the Cherrymax with the mandrel. Now I had a #3 head on a 1/8" diameter Cherrymax to set in these "challenged" locations. Worked great. Better then countersinking the longeron to accept a #4 dimple in skin.

Cherry used to make exactly this type of rivet. I don't know if they still do or are available affordability in small quantities.

So improvise.................

boom3 · #18 11-12-2009, 11:42 AM

Ok based on Van's response...

"3/32 blind rivets are what you'd need. Any would do, but we don't sell them in that length, and they're not commonly available."

The only 3/32 blind rivets I could find that were long enough were the CCR264SS-3's. Thanks for the suggestions!

Due to the thickness of my material and recommended rivet "Grip lenth" I elected to use CCR264SS-3-3's for the rear two and a CCR264SS-3-4 for the front one. (You can buy them individually from Wick's)

Anyway I'm happy for now and can't wait for the next drama to come along on this project.

Although they look alot like solid rivets from this angle, they aren't.