CS-1900 Firewall Sealant

[gpiney]

A question for anyone who has purchased and used this Stuff in the past few months.
Did your kit come with a nozzle?

I did not get a nozzle in the kit. Just the tube and the ramrod. I was going to do the dirty deed last night when we (me and my helper) realized there was no nozzle. We were having a hard enough time figuring out the directions. While I am at it, any hints on the directions?

Thanks in Advance

[scsmith]

HI,

I've used the cartridge mixing system twice now, once on a small tube of proseal, and once with the firewall flame sealant. The process is the same.

There is a kind of paddlewheel inside to do the mixing. The instructions are trying to explain how to capture the paddle wheel on the end of the ram rod (it screws on) and then move the plunger in and out while turning (clockwise so the paddle wheel doesn't unscrew).

The first step is controlling when the catalyst gets distributed out of the plunger. You basically don't want to dump it all in one place, because it will take more mixing. So they tell you to squeeze a little out, push the plunger in farther, squeeze some more out, move the plunger again, etc. Be especially sure not to dump a bunch of it at the end, because it will be harder to get mixed in.

My tube did come with a nozzle. You screw it on after you take the ram rod out if I remember right. I did the firewall sealing after all the FWF stuff was done, unfortunately, so there was lots of stuff in the way. I squirted it in the corner best I could, then spread it with a gloved finger. Wasn't too hard, looks kinda reasonable/functional, if not artistic.

Hope that helps

[alpinelakespilot2000]

Does the 6 oz version Van's sells in the cartridge stir very well? I noticed someone posted that when they mixed it out of the larger can version, that it was incredibly thick and hard to mix. I once used a cartridge of regular proseal for fuel tanks and even it was hard to stir to the point that the plastic stir paddle it came with broke. I can only imagine that the CS-1900 would be even harder to mix in that cartridge and don't want to break it and thus waste that much money just to seal three control cable holes in the firewall that are already covered with stainless steel covers.

Any thoughts?

[Lars]

Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000

Does the 6 oz version Van's sells in the cartridge stir very well? I noticed someone posted that when they mixed it out of the larger can version, that it was incredibly thick and hard to mix. I once used a cartridge of regular proseal for fuel tanks and even it was hard to stir to the point that the plastic stir paddle it came with broke. I can only imagine that the CS-1900 would be even harder to mix in that cartridge and don't want to break it and thus waste that much money just to seal three control cable holes in the firewall that are already covered with stainless steel covers.

Any thoughts?

I think you mean the 3.5 oz version... in any case, I've used it. No issues. You do get a workout mixing the stuff, but the mixer rod didn't break. I found that the CS1900, completely unlike CS3204, is not really very sticky. In fact I had to jam it into the nooks and crannies of the firewall recess when I sealed it. Once it cured though, it managed to stay put and now seems well-adhered. Strange stuff. Oh yeah, and it stinks of aromatic hydrocarbons to high heaven.

[roee]

I used CS1900 recently when installing the firewall recess. As other have said, it has a strange working consistency, very viscous and not very sticky, almost more like solid rubber than liquid even during its working time. But it does seem to have adhered well after curing and I'm happy with the results. Mixed it according to the directions on the package with no problems.

Having said that, to seal non-riveted structures like cable penetrations I'd consider using Biotherm 100, sold by Plane Innovations. I've used it to seal the stainless steel cabin heat selector they sell (which comes with a small tube of it). This stuff reportedly has stood up very well in flame testing. And it's inexpensive and very easy to work with. See: http://www.planeinnovations.com/firewallkits.html

[Lars]

Originally Posted by roee

I used CS1900 recently when installing the firewall recess. As other have said, it has a strange working consistency, very viscous and not very sticky, almost more like solid rubber than liquid even during its working time. But it does seem to have adhered well after curing and I'm happy with the results. Mixed it according to the directions on the package with no problems.

Having said that, to seal non-riveted structures like cable penetrations I'd consider using Biotherm 100, sold by Plane Innovations. I've used it to seal the stainless steel cabin heat selector they sell (which comes with a small tube of it). This stuff reportedly has stood up very well in flame testing. And it's inexpensive and very easy to work with. See: http://www.planeinnovations.com/firewallkits.html

I just tried searching directly for Rectorseal Biotherm 100. A search of Rectorseal's website turned up a goose egg. Looks like it's been spun off: http://www.biofireshield.com/products.htm

The reason I searched was to find out what it's made of- curiosity. Looks like a silicone product, just not intuminescent like 3M Firebarrier 2000. I have used some of the latter, found it easy to apply, but have not put it to the test (thankfully).