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10-27-2009, 05:29 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kitchener, Ontario Canada
Posts: 36
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Building the wing jig
My partner and I are just about ready to build the wing jig. Anybody out there have any tips? Should we use 2x4s nailed together or 4x4s? We are thinking of building 2 jigs side by side, to make the build go faster. Pictures of your wing jig would be great.
Thanks in advance.
Steve and Glen RV6A 1997 wing kit, prepunched!
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10-27-2009, 06:36 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,761
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My $.02 worth:
4X4s will probably result is less "movement", and that's what you are after. Precision is not critical as you will level the spars themselves, but you don't want the jig to shift during wing construction.
I strongly recommend that you do 2 jigs and build the wings concurrently. It will go much faster.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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10-27-2009, 06:46 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,069
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Build one like this....with 2 poles...not just one in the center..
Otherwise you will be crawling on the floor to roll under the wings and to get to the inside...and this will especially annoying when you have done this several times and still yet always seem to forget a tool that you needed..ask me why I know.

__________________
Ryan Allen, CFII
RV7 N612RA, flying since july 2012
E-170/175
RV10 Tail Kit complete, Wings 90%, fuse on order
Acro Sport 2, building
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10-27-2009, 06:57 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Charleston, WV
Posts: 139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormer
My partner and I are just about ready to build the wing jig. Anybody out there have any tips? Should we use 2x4s nailed together or 4x4s? We are thinking of building 2 jigs side by side, to make the build go faster. Pictures of your wing jig would be great.
Thanks in advance.
Steve and Glen RV6A 1997 wing kit, prepunched!
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I do not know if this is the case with you or not, but in my shop, I was not able to nail/glue the base of the jig to the floor.
Therefore, I stole an idea that I saw on a builder website where he used 2X6's and Jackposts to build a jig that is very sturdy, yet completely removable. This is the method that I use, and it does work quite well.
So, if the floor fixing is an issue for you too, then you may want to try this approach as well.
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10-27-2009, 08:11 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 66
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Here is mine..
I built two separate wing jigs as well. Used two 2x4's glued/screwed together rather than 4x4's. As you can see in the link below, they are not attached to anything, which was very useful when we moved to a new house.
I still have the Sketchup file if you are interested...
http://www.fabs-designs.com/rv7a/labels/Wing%20Jig.html
Luis
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Luis Orozco
Austin, TX
RV7A - Flying!
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10-27-2009, 09:29 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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I went with the two 2x4 route and screwed them together. Just make sure you find straight ones and put the back-to-back as described on the wing jig section of my web site.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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10-27-2009, 09:58 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: St. Louis (Eureka), MO
Posts: 283
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Used steel uprights attached to a wood mobile base so I could move around. Support arms attached to steel uprights. Was very solid, mobile. Did one wing at a time to save garage space - no regrets.
See bottom pic here (I can send more pics if needed. These were also re-cycled for my fuselage rotisserie):
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...=26736&row=107
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10-27-2009, 10:31 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: 45G, Brighton, MI
Posts: 1,867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cnpeters
Used steel uprights attached to a wood mobile base so I could move around. Support arms attached to steel uprights. Was very solid, mobile. Did one wing at a time to save garage space - no regrets.
See bottom pic here (I can send more pics if needed. These were also re-cycled for my fuselage rotisserie):
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...=26736&row=107
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This is great for the RV7/8/9/10 fully prepunched wings, where the "jig" is really just a work rack to allow access to both sides simultaneously, the alignment being determined by the parts themselves. The -4 and -6 wing construction method relies on the uprights being rigid relative to each other to absolutely assure there is no twist in the spar before drilling skins to ribs.
__________________
Miles (VAF# 1238, Paid up as of 2018)
RV-7 TU 904KM (reserved)
Wings Fitted and Finish Kit on site
Construction Log
Picasa: Empennage Album, Wings Album, Fuselage Album
1955 Cessna 170B flying since 1982
'To get something you never had, you have to do something you never did.' -Unk.
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10-27-2009, 11:30 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 445
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I'll built one at a time, but only because I didn't have room to build both. I had to stay on "my side" of the garage. My jig is free standing. I put some liquid nails on bottom to hold it in place to the concrete, which was easily scrapped off later.
Here's some pics:
http://www.smittysrv.com/more_stuff.asp?ID=316
__________________
Smitty
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10-27-2009, 12:44 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 426
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Out of necessity, I built a mobile wing jig for my -8 wings. It's on casters and is forkliftable because my workspace tends only to be available evenings and weekends. Works well so far, except that I feel that mobile jigs are a recipe for inadvertent damage if others get the need to move things...
The jig is 100x100x3 RHS (4"x4"x1/8") from memory. Also, whilst I intended (and am) building both wings simultaneously, I have put them too close together to allow good build access to each wing when they're both on the jig. For some operations, I need to remove the wing I'm not working on for access - another inadvertent damage risk. I did drill/ream all the rear spar holes with it sat at 5' AGL on a forklift though, so that was kind of handy! 
Last edited by Andy_RR : 10-27-2009 at 12:50 PM.
Reason: more info
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