D-sub connectors

[petehowell]

Hello,

I have a few situations where I need to put in a connector for a number of small wires. Think bottom of the Ray Allen stick grips and behind the panel connection to the elev trim indicator. Any reason not to use crimp d-sub pins, sockets and shells with the shells held together with small nylon wraps? I secured the whole connection to structure with a larger nylon wrap.

It is a good connection, pretty cheap and easily connected/disconnected.

Seems to be a good solution, but I thought I would check with the RV Borg out there.

Pete

[f1rocket]

I used sockets without the shells. Once plugged together, I cover the whole assembly with a piece of large heat shrink tube. Once shrunk, it holds the two connectors together nicely.

[Ironflight]

Early in the build, I bought a hundred of each from Steinair, and used them all over. Where I had just a couple of wires, I did like Randy said, and used no shells - just heat shrink. Makes a good semi-permanent connection for things that you don't intend to take apart, but might someday. Other places, used shells and back-shells where apprpriate.

Paul

[Davepar]

Here are two previous threads that discussed connectors for the trim wires:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ead.php?t=4300
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ead.php?t=2700

I started out using D-sub connectors, but they are rather clunky. With the number of connections I need between the stick, servos, and trim indicators, I'm investigating alternatives.

Dave

[RV7Guy]

I used RC servo connectors in a couple of areas where feasible. I used a servo connector for the wires for my fuel transducer. Also used on for my Flap position indicator, and for 3 colored wires in the trim servo bundle. I used a 2 pin connector used for RC cars for the wires for my EL light strip under the glare shield.

Most standard RC connectors are rated for 3 amps or more and will more than handle the work load of trim servos etc....

Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV-7 N717EE

[jcoloccia]

Originally Posted by RV7Guy

I used RC servo connectors in a couple of areas where feasible. I used a servo connector for the wires for my fuel transducer. Also used on for my Flap position indicator, and for 3 colored wires in the trim servo bundle. I used a 2 pin connector used for RC cars for the wires for my EL light strip under the glare shield.

Most standard RC connectors are rated for 3 amps or more and will more than handle the work load of trim servos etc....

Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV-7 N717EE

FYI: Here's a little trick I did back in my RC days when I didn't want connectors to come apart, but be easily disconnected later on. I just took a little piece of thin kevlar line, wrapped it around the connector a couple of times, made a little knot, and then put a drop of cyanoacrylate glue on the knot (not nescessary to glue it, but I trust the glue more than I trust my knots....YMMV). It holds together forever, but when you need to remove it just snip off the knot. It works really well in tight spaces and conduits because it doesn't really make the connector any bigger, and (more importantly for models) it's LIGHT.

I'm not suggesting anyone do this, and it's probably a bad idea for some reason I haven't thought of yet, but it works for me

[RV7Guy]

[quote=jcoloccia]FYI: Here's a little trick I did back in my RC days when I didn't want connectors to come apart, but be easily disconnected later on. I just took a little piece of thin kevlar line, wrapped it around the connector a couple of times, made a little knot, and then put a drop of cyanoacrylate glue on the knot (not nescessary to glue it, but I trust the glue more than I trust my knots....YMMV). It holds together forever, but when you need to remove it just snip off the knot. It works really well in tight spaces and conduits because it doesn't really make the connector any bigger, and (more importantly for models) it's LIGHT.


For my Giant Scale aerobatic planes I secure the connectors with heat shrink tubing. I also did that on the connectors in the RV. Easy to remove if necessary, nearly impossible to come unconnected.

I remembered on the flap position sensor I used some 4-40 ball links and rod to connect the flap arm and the sensor. This is a good way to translate rotary motion to linear motion without binding.

Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV-7 N717EE