First stab at electrical

Lionclaw · #1 10-10-2009, 03:42 PM

My brother has been helping put together a wiring diagram for my RV-9A. Here's the first stab. If anyone has any suggestions we'd love to hear.

Thanks!

http://www.comptonsoft.com/rv9/N643AC_Electrical.pdf

glenn654 · #2 10-10-2009, 05:31 PM

Looks Good.....how did you do the diagram?

Glenn Wilkinson

AltonD · #3 10-10-2009, 07:08 PM

The starter contactor is different from the main contactor. The main is grounded to close the relay, the starter relay must have power applied to power up. another way: The Van's contactor has three terminals, two big, one small, Ground the small one to close the relay. The Van's starter solenoid has three terminals, two big, one small. Apply battery voltae to the small terminal to close the solenoid.

You are showing a 5 amp fuse in-line with the shunt to the main bus.

If you are going with the plane power alternator, the regulator is built in. You only need a field wire.

I have LSIII ignition. On mine, the on/off switch is in the power lead. I am assuming that is a pullable breaker in the line supplying it.

Here is a link by GMS jet pilot: http://img116.imageshack.us/i/altwiring5cm.jpg/
Look at this installation of the diodes around the master solenoid. Also look at the starter solenoid and diode.

Looking at your drawing, I might have my alternator wired incorrectly. My output is on the bus side of the main contactor. I'll ivestigate on this one.

AltonD · #4 10-10-2009, 07:23 PM

I just looked at a few other schematics. They all had the Alt output going to the main bus. You have yours going directly to the battery. It will work, but consider this: if your alternator goes south and wants to let the smoke out of the wires, how are you going to isolate it? It will also take down your LS ignition since it is on the battery side of the master. If the alt output it is on main bus side of the master relay, killing the master will completely take out the alternator.
In your drawing, killing the master will power down the alternator (by killing the filed), but not isolate it from the battery.

Just my two cents and I am quite often wrong.

IowaRV9Dreamer · #5 10-11-2009, 09:06 AM

I thought accepted practice was to not ground the magneto at the switch - the switch closes the P-lead to its sheild which is grounded at the magneto. In other words, just remove the "GND BUS" at the switch side.

MCA · #6 10-11-2009, 12:25 PM

There are some generic documents that might be helpful to you regarding contactors and wiring:

http://www.verticalpower.com/documents.html

Connector Service Manual Step by step instruction how to work with Molex, d-sub, insulated crimp and other connectors.

Contactor Wiring Overview of the different types of contactors used in experimental aircraft, and step by step instructions how to wire them properly.

Also, you usually don't need a fuse near the bus for the wire bringing power to the bus. If do install a fuse, it should be near the contactor to protect the wire run. The LSE usually has a switch on the power line from the batt.

Yes, the magnetos are grounded through the shiedl wire back to the magneto. The second mag switch should go to the LSE. See LSE instructions. You're showing two mags yet there is a LSE too.

Hope that helps.

Beancounter · #7 10-11-2009, 05:20 PM

Andy
I think you have some of EGT and CHT wires to the wrong locations on the RDAC. Please review the instal manual. I believe when using 4 EGT probes they occupy TC1~4 and CHT use TC5~8.

Thread creep. Do you know if the Odyssey needs to be turned off during startup. I have mine connected to the main master not the avionics bus. That way I have oil indication on startup and on shut down it is a glaring reminder to turn off the master.

Matt

mannanj · #8 10-11-2009, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beancounter

Thread creep. Do you know if the Odyssey needs to be turned off during startup. I have mine connected to the main master not the avionics bus. That way I have oil indication on startup and on shut down it is a glaring reminder to turn off the master.
Matt

I have Van's Hobbs Meter Switch on the oil pressure manifold hooked up to where the "normally open" part closes when the oil pressure comes up, starting the Hobbs. The "normally closed" part sends buss voltage to a large yellow light on the pannel. When the oil pressure comes up, it opens that switch and the light goes out indicating that oil pressure is there. It also works great as a master switch warning light!

This way no expensive electrical components are endangered during start up and shut down.

Lionclaw · #9 10-12-2009, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glenn654

Looks Good.....how did you do the diagram?

Glenn Wilkinson

The diagram was done using ExpressSCH. My brother says it's pretty easy to use and he has been happy with it so far.

Lionclaw · #10 10-12-2009, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AltonD

The starter contactor is different from the main contactor. The main is grounded to close the relay, the starter relay must have power applied to power up. another way: The Van's contactor has three terminals, two big, one small, Ground the small one to close the relay. The Van's starter solenoid has three terminals, two big, one small. Apply battery voltae to the small terminal to close the solenoid.

You are showing a 5 amp fuse in-line with the shunt to the main bus.

If you are going with the plane power alternator, the regulator is built in. You only need a field wire.

I have LSIII ignition. On mine, the on/off switch is in the power lead. I am assuming that is a pullable breaker in the line supplying it.

Here is a link by GMS jet pilot: http://img116.imageshack.us/i/altwiring5cm.jpg/
Look at this installation of the diodes around the master solenoid. Also look at the starter solenoid and diode.

Looking at your drawing, I might have my alternator wired incorrectly. My output is on the bus side of the main contactor. I'll ivestigate on this one.

Alton, thanks for the tip. We'll go ahead and fix the starter contactor and repost again later today.

There are 3 breakers (we may need to change the symbol). The two above are 2A and 5A for the regulator. We haven't figured out what size to use on the main bus yet.

We'll be using the LR3C with an automotive alternator.

We were planning on using the breaker to kill the LSI in an emergency and the "P Lead" line to turn it on/off regularly. Does it draw power when the "P Lead" line on the output connector is grounded? Maybe we need a switch on the power line?