Rolled Leading Edges

[jcoloccia]

Is it normal to have to wrestle the leading edge of the control surfaces together after rolling them? On my RV-7 rudder (new style), I got the top part and middle part together without too much trouble, but it was a bit of a wrestling match to get the holes on the bottom to line up well enough to drill and cleco them together (i.e. I squeezed them together pretty hard by hand while my girlfriend clecoed). After pop rivetting, everything lies together pretty nicely with pretty much no creasing, but I'm wondering if this is normal or if I'm missing something here.

I want to get it right on all the other control surfaces at least

[dan]

If you had taken the SportAir workshop, you'd know to use duct tape!

Duct tape goes a long way here. Give it a shot.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com

[jcoloccia]

Originally Posted by dan

If you had taken the SportAir workshop, you'd know to use duct tape!

Duct tape goes a long way here. Give it a shot.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com

*HEAD SLAP* like duh I did use duct tape to do the rolling with the pipe, but I'm assuming you mean use duct tape to make little handles to pull the edges together instead of tearing up my hands. That'll definately help with the other control surfaces. I'll take this to mean a bit of wrestling to get the clecos in is normal.

I really wish I'd taken one of the workshops instead of just heading out on my own with 0 experience. Anyone who's reading this, do as Dan says, not as *I* do....

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

One of the things that works well here is a broom handle and on rolled edges, I duct tape it down and curl -- or at least begin to -- that small section you refer to first. Not much, but a little bit. Then I duct tape the handle to the other edges so that all three are now joined with the broom handle and I begin to roll it.

It's really important -- really important -- to keep downward pressure as you roll it so you don't crease the skin at the spar.

And, obviously repeat with the other side.

Once the thing is curled, it should be a little tussle to get the holes lined up and clecoed, but it shouldn't be a big struggle.

You can then take more pieces of duct tape and hold it all together, cleco and drill (through the duct tape as the case maybe) and then remove the tape. Deburr the holes and pop rivet.

A couple of things to look for before you drill is all the clecoes standing "in formation." If they're not...there's probably a little more work to do on the curling front.

Oh, and be sure to check the distance between the spar and the skin on both ends to be sure you're in the ballpark.

[dan]

Originally Posted by jcoloccia

*HEAD SLAP* like duh I did use duct tape to do the rolling with the pipe, but I'm assuming you mean use duct tape to make little handles to pull the edges together instead of tearing up my hands. That'll definately help with the other control surfaces. I'll take this to mean a bit of wrestling to get the clecos in is normal.

No, I don't mean "handles." I mean...pull the flaps together and slap duct tape across 'em to hold them together while you drill, while you cleco, etc.

)_( Dan

[redbeardmark]

Originally Posted by jcoloccia

*HEAD SLAP* like duh I did use duct tape to do the rolling with the pipe, but I'm assuming you mean use duct tape to make little handles to pull the edges together instead of tearing up my hands. That'll definately help with the other control surfaces. I'll take this to mean a bit of wrestling to get the clecos in is normal.

I really wish I'd taken one of the workshops instead of just heading out on my own with 0 experience. Anyone who's reading this, do as Dan says, not as *I* do....

Duct tape, broom handle, and a little grunt work. After doing the rolling part, interlock your fingers squeezing the two pieces a little at a time until the edges gradually come together. Don't hurry and don't try to bend too much at once. Work your way up and down the rudder doing a little at a time.