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  #1  
Old 09-18-2009, 02:20 PM
Erik Westlund Erik Westlund is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Everett Wa
Posts: 32
Default Tip: Dished fiberglass tips

I thought someone might find this usefull. when I made the closeouts for the tips I found that the elevator interfered with the closeout bulkhead I had made. so I added 6 more layers of 6 oz glass to the inside of it. then after it cured I took the die grinder with a 36 grit sanding disc and used the curve of the disc to dish it out. then cleaned it up with a little filler. now I'll prime it and be done.
have the same distance through the whole travel of the elevator now.
happy building
Erik
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Last edited by Erik Westlund : 09-18-2009 at 04:10 PM. Reason: pics wrong
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  #2  
Old 09-18-2009, 05:28 PM
David Clifford David Clifford is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 220
Default

I just wetted out the layers of glass called for cut a little oversize, sandwiched with peel-ply and let it cure on a flat surface covered with coated butchers wrap. (Wax paper will work also) . When cured I cut out the closeouts 1/4" oversize after removing the peel-ply, roughed up the inside edge's with 40 grit sandpaper, buttered the joint area with stiff flox for the joint and filet, positioned the closeout and held it in place with duct tape. Then I used a piece of cardboard for a clearance spacer and placed it over the cutout. Moving the elevator in nuetral position pushed the closeout in creating the concave surface. I taped the elevator in position to hold it in place and cleaned up the squeezed out flox with a popcycle stick and let it cure. After cure I just used the Fein Multimaster to trim the overhanging closeout piece close and then sanded the edge flush, putting a small radius on the edge. The peel ply leaves a fractured surface ready for paint or fill when you strip it off.
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