Tip: Torque Seal

[Webb]

In a recent thread I reported a missing locknut on a condition inspection. Numerous post about torque seal came back. Let me add something to that I learned from my good friend that is building a sweet looking 8 he learned from a very good A&P.

After putting your mark on the bolt and nut, put a second line on the piece it is holding together. When you pull the cover off for your condition inspection, if it is still lined up, IT HASN'T MOVED and you won't have to re-check the torque.

[BoilermakerRV]

Where I work we apply torque stripe/seal to any torqued fasteners. Until your post I never really thought too much about where we apply it. However, I can tell you that we always put the torque stripe between the bolt head and the "base material". But I guess that's just for bolts going into nutplates where the nut is not accesible. When we can get to the nut, we torque the nut and stripe from the nut to the washer then to the base material. I've never seen torque stripe applied to the protruding bolt and nut only.

Sorry for rambling. Your post just got my gears turnin'.

[niblettda]

As indicated in this EAA video, you shouldn't put torque seal on the threads.

http://link.brightcove.com/services/...id=29739769001

[BillSchlatterer]

Webb, just curious, did you try the old nut out again to see if the nylon lock collar would still hold if torqued properly. I can't really see how the nut could have worked it's way completely off unless the lock collar was somehow gone or worn out?

Thanks Bill S

[Webb]

Originally Posted by BillSchlatterer

Webb, just curious, did you try the old nut out again to see if the nylon lock collar would still hold if torqued properly. I can't really see how the nut could have worked it's way completely off unless the lock collar was somehow gone or worn out?

Thanks Bill S

No I didn't. I was so rattled that I tossed it and put a new one on.