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  #1  
Old 09-05-2009, 01:53 PM
PaulStrickland PaulStrickland is offline
 
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Location: Riverside, CT
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Default question about hole deburring

I'm either over-thinking this, or I'm about to save several thousand dollars.

I'm on the second practice kit and have zero metal experience outside of practice kit #1. One thing I'm noticing is that deburred holes on thin metal take on a starburst appearance - is this normal, or do I need to renew my deburring tool (that I bought used)?

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  #2  
Old 09-05-2009, 02:07 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Whoa- basically you have ended up machine countersinking the hole. The ridges are from the bit "chattering" in the hole. I think you are pressing way too hard with the deburring bit. I'm also guessing you are letting it turn too long as well. Just let the bit sit in the hole without much pressure and let it turn 2, 3 at the most full revolutions and then move on. I have a hex extension on mine that I chuck in a Black and Decker cordless screwdriver. A quick blip of the trigger gives me 2 turns which is enough.
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  #3  
Old 09-05-2009, 02:11 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Also, was the hole dimpled before you tried to debur? If so, debur first, then dimple. Dimpling a non-deburred hole can lead to cracks.
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2009, 02:22 PM
roee roee is offline
 
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Good decision to ask. Those results are not acceptable. Looks like 1) you're removing way too much material, thereby forming a countersink and enlarging the hole to a razor edge, and 2) the "starburst" appearance you're talking about is due to bit chatter. Both problems can significantly weaken the hole and make it prone to cracking.

Your countersink bit may be part of the problem (unsuitable type of bit, or old and dull, etc.). But technique is definitely an issue. By looking at your results I'm guessing you're using some kind of power tool? and just going way, way too deep.

I generally use one of these countersink bits (http://www.averytools.com/pc-430-43-...ter---100.aspx) on an 8" shank extension, and just turn it by hand. It generally doesn't take more than one or two revolutions of the tool, and very little pressure. The objective is only to remove the sharp burr that forms from drilling, NOT to countersink the hole.
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Last edited by roee : 09-05-2009 at 02:28 PM. Reason: clarification
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  #5  
Old 09-05-2009, 02:23 PM
mdevans9 mdevans9 is offline
 
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Location: Hockessin,Delaware
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Paul, As you say, another thing that will help is a sharp deburring tool - I would get rid of that used item, and then follow the other posters' advice.

Regards, Merrill
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2009, 02:29 PM
PaulStrickland PaulStrickland is offline
 
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Thanks for the help!

On the dimpled side - that's just what it looked like post-dimple.

I was pressing hard and I was rotating a lot more than twice - I wanted to "see" a result I suppose. I just tried a light touch with a couple of rotations and it seems smooth. Here's the new result, post-dimple:

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  #7  
Old 09-05-2009, 02:39 PM
roee roee is offline
 
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That looks good.
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  #8  
Old 09-06-2009, 10:02 PM
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Les Bourne Les Bourne is offline
 
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Location: Universal City, TX
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Arrow Beginers help

Paul,

It looks like you might need some basic help. I have a DVD out that is getting great reviews. It is Building Basics, how to get started. You can find it at http://homebuildervideos.com/

Good Luck
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  #9  
Old 09-06-2009, 10:48 PM
Danny7 Danny7 is offline
 
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you really only need to go around one rotation. just a quick twirl and its done.
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  #10  
Old 09-07-2009, 10:02 AM
mcencula mcencula is offline
 
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Location: Delaware, OH
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Default Using single flute deburring bits

...and countersinks is much easier to get good results.
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