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  #1  
Old 08-25-2009, 11:07 AM
rjcthree's Avatar
rjcthree rjcthree is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bay Village, OH
Posts: 885
Default Great big bundle of wires running down the FW and into the center tunnel

It would seem like everybody has the need to run some wires (tubes too) from the panel and into the center section of 7's and 9's - not sure about 6's and 10's, more likely with tip-ups. With the stainless prop governor pocket in the way, and the heated air vents below that, it would appear the only way is beside that area until it reaches near the floor, then into the tunnel. Soooooo, how did you get into the tunnel? I THINK I'm opting for an electrical (not plumbing) elbow from the aviation isle at home depot - but it's pvc, which bothers me a bit. The conduit going up is PP, which scares me less.

Does anybody see a 1.5" elbow of PVC, open at both ends effectively, a real fire hazard? This has gotten me stuck, and I'm getting a little cranky about it. Or maybe it's just my true nature . . .

Rick 90432 wiring. Waiting on the seemingly weekly box from aircraft spruce.
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  #2  
Old 08-25-2009, 12:59 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bennington, Vermont USA
Posts: 1,301
Default Split them into smaller bundles..

The Van's wiring drawings for 6/7/9 show more than one firewall penetration for wire bundles - one bottom right near the solenoids and battery and one top left coming off the panel. These go through plastic snap bushings that are then gooped up with high temp RTV - light, cheap and easy if a bit ugly - depends on your wet RTV sculpting skills though You can also use more expensive "eyeball" fittings from Spruce etc. I also had a penetration top right for the TC wires and another top center for the electrical tach sender cable. This last one needed a bigger hole for the prewired plug so I used a big hole with a split rubber grommet and a cheap stainless steel cover from Van's - again all gooped up with RTV.

Jim Sharkey
RV6 - Phase 1
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  #3  
Old 08-25-2009, 01:34 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Canby, Oregon
Posts: 1,786
Default Rick, if your talking about inside the cabin.

I used two of those black corrugated tubes and run then down the left side and into the tunnel. The wires stay inside to tubes until they get passed the fuel selector.

Kent
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RV9A N94KJ - IO320, CS, tipup
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  #4  
Old 08-25-2009, 03:00 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 133
Default Ditto

Yep, what Kent said



and with the cover on (disregard that arrow, that is just showing where my throttle cable goes)



Jason
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RV-7A TMX IO-360 3-Blade MT CS Prop, Flying
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Last edited by jrouault : 08-25-2009 at 03:03 PM. Reason: insert images incorrectly
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  #5  
Old 08-25-2009, 03:14 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Highland Village, TX
Posts: 1,519
Default

I have a very fat bundle of wires that I had to deal with so I know exactly what you're talking about. I had to make a number of modifications to the center tunnel / heater cover in order to run my wires.

I ran all my wires and antenna coax down the left side. I cut away a large section of the vertical left side of the cover (i.e. most of the flange from the floor to just below the heater shelf).

Additionally, the cover would not clear the bundle at the forward bottom corner where the wires made the turn going aft. I cut away the section of the cover that was interferring with the wires and made a trianglular cover to fit the corner that I cut out.

I didn't use any type of conduit. Just adel clamps and spiral wrap.

If I were doing it again, I'd split the bundle in half - some of the wires down the right side and some down the left
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  #6  
Old 08-27-2009, 07:06 PM
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Location: Bay Village, OH
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Default thanks guys

I was talking about inside only, and everybody confirmed my suspicion. Thanks!
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