Type of static port rivet?

swisseagle · #1 07-26-2009, 03:05 PM

Hello thogheter!

I hope not all of you are out for Oshkosh!

I would like to install my own static port, but I want to use the same rivet that is in the static port kit that vans sell. I dont want to spend 19$ just for this rivet, I have all the other material.

Does anyone exactly knew which type of blind rivet they use in this kit? I heared that is is difficult to use something else, because it can create reading errors.

thanks alot and kind regards,

Dominik

mrt890 · #2 07-26-2009, 03:16 PM

It is an SD-42-BSLF rivet.

Webb · #3 07-26-2009, 03:25 PM

I highly recommend installing a "real" static port instead of the rivet. THe nylon tubing and connectors are a much sturdier connection.

swisseagle · #4 07-27-2009, 03:30 PM

Thanks for the information about the rivet-type!

I plan to just pull one rivet in a piece of aluminum sheet, encapsule it with epoxy, cut it perpendicular to the aluminum sheet and mesure it out.

So I can turn a static port from solid aluminum with a pipe thread on the inside, the unit gets riveted to the skin and is absolut the same on the outside.

I hope this gives the same reading.

A friend of mine installed a flush design static port and has reading errors that the FAA not tolerate.

I will inform when I have it done.

Regards, Dominik

rzbill · #5 07-27-2009, 03:39 PM

I have found a relatively equal amount of "noise" here on a couple of static port issues.

1) Use the rivet head (SD-42-BLSF stated earlier) to get proper static readings rather than using a flush port.

2) Find a more robust method to connect the tubing, even though many many say the Van's "cheesy" method is fine.

I prosealed and riveted a flanged fitting to the inside of the fuselage in order to have a 1/8" NPT fitting port for connecting the tubing. I will be using the SD rivet for the exterior port shape.

http://websites.expercraft.com/rzbil...y&log_id=39754

paul330 · #6 07-28-2009, 09:33 AM

The VANS or equivalent static port will work but it is inelegant in the extreme - much proseal or RTV needed to make it seal. May I suggest the SafeAir system which has a machined port and threaded parts which go together beautifully. Can't remember the price but I think it's less than $100 - peanuts if you are spending $100k on the aircraft. The latest version has been re-jigged so that about 1/16 extends out from the skin for an accurate reading.

Please don't skimp on something so important.