Tip: Backriveting 470 rivets

[Robert M]

Here's an idea that hit me as I was trying to figure out how I could rivet some 470 rivets without any help. I'm wondering if somone else has already talked about this.

After getting the hinge parts ready to rivet onto the floor of the RV, I was going to have to figure out a way to set the rivets without any help or wait until I did get help.

So here's what I tried - and it worked......

Using one my my backriveting plates, I placed a small, thin (about 3/8") piece of foam rubber on each side of the riveting area. Then, making sure that no clecos were clear of the plate so they wouldn't interfere, I used my 3X gun to set the rivets using the backriveting plate as my bucking bar.

Here are the pix....



There's no way this method could be used in all situations but it sure worked great right here.

[vmirv8bldr]

I can't see the pics, my employer blocks them. But I think I understood your situation. I believe I used my c-frame for that task. I ordered one of the AVery kits, and part of it included a direct rivet-gun rod for use in the C-Frame. That piece is for the shop head side. I placed the unversal head into the C-Frame base. It is then a delicate balancing act to start riveting. It was not overly complicated though, and things came out well.

The only concern I would have with your solution is ensuring the work pieces remain flush against the manufactured head when you start riveting.

If it's stupid and it works, it's not stupid.

[eric.kallio]

I didn't do this at home because the need never came up, but at work to back rivet some AN 470 heads, I drilled into one side of the back rivet plate just far enough to crater the plate for the head. It took a big drill press, a sharp bit that was the same diameter of the rivet shop head, and lots of oil to keep it cool, but the recess works great. Just another way to skin the proverbial cat.

Eric Kallio

[BoilermakerRV]

I'm not really understanding how this works. Since I may be doing quite a bit of riveting on my own, I'd like to. On which side of the assembly is the shop head? Does the plate bend down to the back riveting plate?

[RV7Factory]

Originally Posted by BoilermakerRV

Does the plate bend down to the back riveting plate?

I had the same thought. I suppose you could always rivet against a squeezer yoke slid in between the part/rivet and backriveting plate to reduce the bending.

[morlino]

It looks to me like it isn't really back riveting. From the pics it looks like universal set is used in the gun and the shop head is formed on the barckriveting plate (it is just acting as a bucking bar). I suspect that the foam compresses and the assembly being riveted flexes downward slightly to close the gap. It looks like something I'll have to try out.

[frankh]

just drill a 3/16ths hole in your back rivet plate (or other piece of flat steel) and insert a domed set to hold the rivet head.

Then back rivet in the nromal way... did my vertical tail spar this way.


Frank

[penguin]

Secure your largest bucking bar in the vice, hold the work piece and rivet away. Make sure the workpiece doesn't shift off the side of the bar. I use this method all the time.

Pete

[larrynew]

I use my Cleaveland C-frame to backrivet AN4704 rivets. The lower set holder holds the AN470 set and the upper holder holds the backrivet set with my rivet gun on top. It's not pretty but I use scrap wood to shim and level and since the upper backrivet set is held perfectly square, getting a well set rivet is easy.

[GAHco]

I am glad your idea worked so well, I will keep it in mind as I have started my fuselage.

It is acceptable to use a flat set or a bucking bar on the head of a universal rivet (470).

the old non countersunk but flat head rivet (442) were replaced by the 470 and can be driven from either side.