static ports from Safeair v Vans

[tonyjohnson]

I am interested in a comparison between the static air ports offered by Safeair and those provided by Vans. I plan to fly IFR, so it is of some importance to have an accurate static air system. I already have the Vans static air ports installed. I am wondering if it is worth it to change to the Safeair product.

Any observations would be appreciated.

[Ironflight]

Tony,

If a sample of "1" is of any use for you, I have the Van's ports, and my static system seems to be pretty accurate....but then, since I have nothing to compare it to - how would I know?

Actually, when I flew GPS calibration tests for the airspeed system, I ended up with accuracy across the airspeed range of about 1%, which is phenomenal (I think),so I really think the stock static ports are fine.

Paul

[tonyjohnson]

Paul,

Thanks for the input. 1% works for me

[RV7Guy]

You owe it to yourself to look at the Safeair1 Pitot/static system. The hardware is top notch. The connectors and T fittings are very easy to use making the install very quick. The price is very reasonable for everything you get. They will also customize the set up for your equipment.

Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ

[gmcjetpilot]

If they work for one person they should work again, but there is a history of other brands of aftermarket "flush" static ports producing error, and it was felt that being flush was the issue. Van's stock pop-rivet set-up we know works, but a protruding pop rivet head with the center mandrel punched out is cheap, light and works but not sophisticated or handsome, may be some would call crude, OK. The bottom line the protruding part seems important.

My RV-4 had an aftermarket port. Before I installed it I machined it a little to allow it to protrude a little. Some time people put so much paint and primer these ports become "too flush" and will produce error, and quite a bit. The fix is bring it out so it protrudes a little or put a little bead or ridge of epoxy just in front of the port, to break up the boundry flow, like a little VG (vortex generator).

I can see why folks want to install a machined aluminum fitting because a prop rivet is not super slick, but it does work. The big hang up is putting a hose on the back side, which is a bit of jury rig. I like to keep it to plans, simple and light but I also want something different.

What I have is "The Possum Works" static ports which work like the Pop rivets but is made from stainless steel screws. They are machined to protrude just a little and go in a single 3/16 hole, and also have a small hole drilled thru the length, which is a good trick. RV builder fiveonepw@aol.com sells them and they cost $(I forgot, less than $20). The nice thing is they are easier to attach the tube and look nice, all stainless steel and look like the original but better. The tube just slides on and a little safety wire wrap to secure or however you want to clap it on. You could use some adhesive to secure it. It is not like some machined units with fancy threaded fittings, but heck, its a static port. As long as there is no leak that is all that matters. You could make these yourself but I don't have a lathe and they looked nice for the price. Also the straight hole going thru the length is not easy to make I am sure.

I am sure Safair is good, just another data point. G

[Davepar]

The Safeair ports are slightly proud of the skin when installed. You just have to make sure not to put too much sealant between them and the skin during installation. If you don't want to go for the whole Safeair static/pitot system, you can buy just the ports and use standard Nyloseal-type fittings.

[Kevin Horton]

Originally Posted by tonyjohnson

I am interested in a comparison between the static air ports offered by Safeair and those provided by Vans. I plan to fly IFR, so it is of some importance to have an accurate static air system. I already have the Vans static air ports installed. I am wondering if it is worth it to change to the Safeair product.

Any observations would be appreciated.

Each aircraft is a bit different, as they are all hand made. The accuracy of the sensed static pressure is very sensitive to the countours around the static ports. So the results from someone else aren't necessarily applicable to your aircraft.

Wait until you get flying, then do the testing to see if you are getting an accurate static pressure from Van's system. If they are accurate for you, then don't change a thing. If you find unacceptable errors then we can look at what mods are needed to reduce the error.

You can find details on how to determine the accuracy of your static system at:

http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/ssec.html

[gmcjetpilot]

Originally Posted by Kevin Horton

Each aircraft is a bit different, as they are all hand made. The accuracy of the sensed static pressure is very sensitive to the contours around the static ports. So the results from someone else aren't necessarily applicable to your aircraft.

Kevin I totally agree but it is not that sensitive.

We know Van's Pop rivet works, so if you emulate that exact "conficuration" the results should be predictable and accurate, i.e., built it to plans.

As far as the flush after market static ports, variations in brand and manufacturing, plus as I said folks get crazy with paint, sealant and other things, can make the "flush" static port, Sub-flush. That is guaranteed to produce poor results.

Yes the shape or surface waviness around the port may affect it, but most RV's with pre-made parts are pretty close. With that said all error in a Pitot-static is usually attributed to the static side of the system. G

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

Dave Parsons, what did you use for sealant. RTV or ProSeal?

[FrankK90989]

I made it from a # 10 ss machine screw no big hole no goop,easy. A drill press will work.

Frank
anodizing parts today