How do I install primer fittings to copper tubing?

ArVeeNiner · #1 07-07-2009, 08:12 PM

I have the AN800-2 fittings for my copper primer lines but how do you attach them to the end of the copper tube?

I've heard you solder them on but I can't find any info in my AC books or online.

These are the fittings:

http://aircraftspruce.com/pdf/2009In...l/Cat09112.pdf

Thanks

G-force · #2 07-07-2009, 11:16 PM

Since I don't see a ferrule in there, I am guessing you slip the union nut over the tube, then solder the AN800-2 union cone to the end of the tube. Then that taper cone seals on the inverted cone on the top of the discharge nipple. Thats my wild guess just looking at the pictures, I've never done it.

carguy614 · #3 07-08-2009, 05:23 AM

union cone and nut. The cone will solder directly to the 1/8" copper primer line.
Quick and easy. You can also braze these to steel line if you wish, but the copper is the ticket for the primer supply. Don't forget to use a large service loop or "S" bend in the copper supply line that attaches to the fitting at the engine. That will relieve the vibration stress at the connection.

Regards,
Chris

Sheldon · #4 07-08-2009, 06:27 AM

Those are the fittings I used when I installed a primer system on my 0-360 for my 6A... I don't remember who or where I got the infomation, but to solder the AN800 nozels on the 1/8" tubing using Silver Solder...! That's what I did... Silver Soldering isn't easy either..! The system worked however, even with loops, etc. to lessen viberation problems, I had mulitable breakage problems... Since I didn't like the idea of spraying fuel on my engine, I removed the entire system... Don't need it.. I have learned of starting techniques for my Lycoming that get around primimg... Sheldon

zilik · #5 07-08-2009, 06:42 AM

Silver is the preferred solder used for this kind of stuff but it's hard to work with. Sheldon did better than I in the fact that he made it work. I used regular old lead based solder and have had no problems with the joints. I had one line crack in 1200 hours and chose to remove the line instead of repairing it. Maybe someday I will but priming on 3 cylinders seems to work just fine.

Bob Martin · #6 07-08-2009, 07:15 AM

I used the Van's Primer kit to start with, it has flared fittings.
I also used a flex braided line from the firewall to the engine as I thought
there would be too much movement for copper or any solid line to hold up to.
Good Luck

ArVeeNiner · #7 07-08-2009, 09:52 AM

Do the AN-800 fittings fit inside the copper tube or outside? I don't have my tube yet. Are we talking 1/8" OD on the tube?

What size T fittings do I need to buy? I got some from Spruce but I'm thinking they are too big. How about the fitting from the primer valve. I think I bought a AN822-4.

Plumbing is so confusing to me!!! Arrghh!

ArVeeNiner · #8 07-08-2009, 12:39 PM

Thanks!!! That's what I needed.

Marc DeGirolamo · #9 07-08-2009, 10:26 PM

Use silver solder...it is much stronger and withstands vibration better. You do need to make sure that the fit is not tight, and use silver solder paste. the solder will only flow where the paste is. You will need an oxy-acetylene set to do this...... not a big deal as long as joint is prepped as stated.....hope this helps.

snopercod · #10 11-14-2016, 06:27 PM

I'm getting ready to solder an AN800-2 brass code union fitting onto my 1/8" copper primer line, and am wondering whether I should have a shop silver braze the joint or whether the lead-free plumbing solder would be OK. The Sn96.5 Ag3.0 Cu0.5, commonly referred to as SAC 305, has a melting point of 422?F (217?C) to 428?F (220?C), so it seems like that wouldn't melt with the engine running. Also, my Essex primer is only going to be used on a cold engine and if the joint had failed in flight, it would be obvious when the primer didn't have the right resistance. Any thoughts?