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  #1  
Old 06-27-2009, 07:04 PM
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David_Nelson David_Nelson is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Austin, TX
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Default Baffle material and outside corners..how?

Hi All,

I'm fitting/trimming the baffle material so that I can get the baffles squared away..mostly. Anyways, I can't figure out how to trim and place the baffle material on an outside corner so that it seals against the cowling. This is the outside corner that I'm talking about:



I know there's supposed to some sheet-metal here that would make this easy but I'm going a different route by adding a support strut and mounting the oil cooler as high as reasonably possible.

Thanks!
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Last edited by David_Nelson : 06-06-2012 at 05:24 AM. Reason: Updated the img URL
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  #2  
Old 06-27-2009, 08:02 PM
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L.Adamson L.Adamson is offline
 
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Location: KSLC
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This is how I did it. The rivited pieces can also be sewn together. Some builders attach a straight piece across the top to attach the baffles to. You should be able to find some websites that show this.




L.Adamson --- RV6A (flying)
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  #3  
Old 06-27-2009, 08:10 PM
49clipper 49clipper is offline
 
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Location: Belleville
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Default 49clipper

Be aware of those exposed rivets in the baffling. I have seen way too many times when those rubbed a hole in aluminum cowlings.
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  #4  
Old 06-27-2009, 08:35 PM
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David_Nelson David_Nelson is offline
 
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Default Thanks

Aha! Isn't that clever. I'll be sure to sew mine.

Thanks Guys!

/\/elson
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  #5  
Old 06-27-2009, 09:46 PM
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N130WN N130WN is offline
 
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Default

You can fill in the joggle in that corner. I have some notes related to that corner of the baffling and additional oil cooler support here:

http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=392
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  #6  
Old 06-28-2009, 08:37 AM
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Rick6a Rick6a is offline
 
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Default Overlapping the Seal

Another way to approach the problem is to overlap the two pieces of baffle seal at the outside corner in such a way as to leave plenty of material on each piece to firmly bind them together with high temp RTV.

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  #7  
Old 06-28-2009, 08:51 AM
Ted RV8 Ted RV8 is offline
 
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Location: Northern CA
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I overlapped them as Rick shows and then tied them with lacing, loosely.

I wanted them to find their own best position once in operation with the air pressure against them. After running a few times they settle into position and giving the best seal.

If you RTV them together and it happens to be the wrong position for best seal they will always be in that position.

Wouldn't rivet them as the rivet will always be rubbing on the fiberglass cowl. Eventually it will do damege to the cowl.

Ted
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  #8  
Old 06-28-2009, 10:04 AM
Rockyjs Rockyjs is offline
 
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There is also a strengthener piece that comes with the newer baffle kit that makes this a straight shot across the back. It can be ordered separately.

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  #9  
Old 06-28-2009, 09:19 PM
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David_Nelson David_Nelson is offline
 
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Location: Austin, TX
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Default Progress thus far...

Thanks again guys for the help. I managed to get the rubber baffles about 99% done. Just lacking the inlet ramps, some sewing, and of course some riveting.



Rick - Curious as to why you didn't silicone the rest of the corners? The one corner seems to have come out very nicely.

Ted - I was wondering what to use for "thread". I take it you haven't had any problems with lacing and high temps. Correct? I find it odd that AC 43.13 doesn't include a section on "cooling".

Rockyjs - My kit did come with that part. I've decided to do away with it for two reasons: 1) I plan to install a strut from that corner over to one of the case bolts along the centerline of the engine. This has proven to work very well against cracking of the aft left corner for other builders. 2) I want to maximize the height of the cooler in order to maximize the number of cooling fins that are subjected to cooling air. Seems that with the bracket, I'd have to install the cooler lower and share the air with the #4 cylinder fins. There was also discussion on VAF and from I recall the recommendation was to install the cooler as high as possible. The plans also indicate to the same.

/\/elson
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Last edited by David_Nelson : 06-06-2012 at 05:25 AM. Reason: Updated img URL
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  #10  
Old 06-29-2009, 05:04 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David_Nelson View Post
Rockyjs - My kit did come with that part. I've decided to do away with it for two reasons: 1) I plan to install a strut from that corner over to one of the case bolts along the centerline of the engine. This has proven to work very well against cracking of the aft left corner for other builders. 2) I want to maximize the height of the cooler in order to maximize the number of cooling fins that are subjected to cooling air. Seems that with the bracket, I'd have to install the cooler lower and share the air with the #4 cylinder fins. There was also discussion on VAF and from I recall the recommendation was to install the cooler as high as possible. The plans also indicate to the same.
/\/elson
You have to be carefull with the cooler much higher than what you can get with that new part Van is now including, the cooler will run into the cowl and could also have problems with the engine mount.

You could still add the brace bar in addition to this part.
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