mounting Lightspeed direct crank sensor/drilling holes

[tomhanaway]

It appears that I would need to drill out and tap holes in the front of the engine to mount the Lightspeed direct sensor bracket to the crankcase.

Not really something that feels warm and fuzzy. For those that had to do it, how big a deal is it?

Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
rv-10

[scsmith]

I chickened out on drilling the holes. The Hall-effect sensor in the mag spot seemed like a nice solution. Don't need to run fine wires to the front of the engine too.

But now, I'm less than happy with the apparent issue of the oil seal on the hall-effect sensor, and the customer support on it - I'm wishing I had just drilled the holes.

At this point, it would require some disassembly to get there. So I think I will fly with the hall-effect until I have a problem. ( and I still have a mag on the other side, of course).

But I would like to hear how others fared.

[dmaib]

I was very nervous about drilling the holes. Additionally, my IO-540-C4B5 is an older engine and the bracket that Lightspeed sent did not fit the front of the engine very well. However, I talked to Lightspeed and got a slightly different mounting bracket that seemed to fit a little better. The guy that overhauled my engine came over and we got it drilled and fit very nicely, with no issues. Over 100 hours no and no problems.

[zilik]

I say that it's not hard but if you muff up it's mighty pricey. I used the sensor bracket as a template for the holes. The holes should fall dead center on the little ears on the crankcase. You'll have to press out one of the prop bushings to gain access to drill and tap the holes. Use a drill stop and go no deeper than you have to. A bottoming tap is useful here as it will tap full threads to the bottom of the hole. Lots of tap magic fluid or kerosene to keep things lubricated. Take your time and measure 6 times before drilling. If at all queasy about drilling a 30K+ engine, seek help.

[gasman]

Originally Posted by scsmith

I chickened out on drilling the holes. The Hall-effect sensor in the mag spot seemed like a nice solution. Don't need to run fine wires to the front of the engine too.

But now, I'm less than happy with the apparent issue of the oil seal on the hall-effect sensor, and the customer support on it - I'm wishing I had just drilled the holes.

At this point, it would require some disassembly to get there. So I think I will fly with the hall-effect until I have a problem. ( and I still have a mag on the other side, of course).

But I would like to hear how others fared.

During your inspection, remove the cover and with a mirror, take a look. Mine has 250 hours and is DRY. KLAUS SAYS THAT THE OIL if it gets past the seal will not cause the unit to fail. Don't all mags have a seal there?

I like the hall-effect unit. I have had no problems with it. The timing is right on each time I check it. It is so simple..... It has only one moving part, and it is easy to get to. I just don't see the benefits of having that circut board under the flywheel. If it is for gear lash, check the gear lash the next time that you have the cover off. Just hold the rotor and rock the prop............ This is not an issue.

[vic syracuse]

It seems the experience with the Hall effect is mixed out there. I had the crank sensor on my 10 with no problems at all in over 600 hours of operation. I put on the hall effect on the 7A, and wish I hadn't. It constantly leaks, even with 160 hours on the engine. I sent it back to Klaus, and he says he changed the seal, but it still constantly leaks 80 hours later. I now pull the cover off every 25 hours and clean it out. I wish I had done the crank sensor, and I have done that on my engine for the 10 currently under construction.
I would tell you that if you are building an airplane, you are probably capable of drilling the holes in the engine. After all, you certainly drill and tap other holses during the construction process. Measure 6 times, then drill and tap, and go slow and be careful, but don't get overly stressed about it. It's been done lots of times by others.
Good Luck!


Vic

[flybill7]

My Mattituck TMX-360 came with the Lightspeed direct sensor bracket mounted.

However, the wire bundle that runs from the sensor under the engine and through the firewall to the ignition module has to go between a narrow gap between the spinner plate -- which rotates -- and the engine. Make absolutely sure the wire bundle is secured well close to the engine so that the spinner plate can't touch it.

I didn't do it well enough and the wire bundle was cut halfway through. I didn't realize it because the cut was hard to see and the EI was working intermittantly. I'm guessing it was contributing to the engine overheating problems I was experiencing.

Eventually I discovered the cut. It was a lot of work to remove the prop and spinner plate, repair the wire bundle, and put it all back together. But once I did the EI worked great and my CHTs and oil temps dropped dramatically. (although the new Stewart Warner 8406R oil cooler surely contributed as well).

Do yourself a favor and make sure that sensor wire bundle is secure!

[Lionclaw]

The LSE website shows a method of mounting for narrow deck engines.

http://www.lightspeedengineering.com...rankSensor.htm

It's about half way down. A pair of brackets attaches to the bolts around the main crank bearing. I'm going to have to do something like this for my O-320-H2AD.