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  #1  
Old 06-10-2009, 04:27 PM
Brantel's Avatar
Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Location: Newport, TN
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Default Tip: How I ended up mounting the E.I. Fuel Flow Transducer (Red Cube)

Earlier I went as far as completing the install using this method.....




But the more I worried about the issues I could dream up on this version like:

1. Cracking of the solid tube over time
2. Pulling fuel through the transducer creating an opportunity to suck air through a bad seal on one of the covers
3. Vapor lock in the line
4. Pulsing of the readings when the boost pump is on

The more I thought about changing it the more I could'nt leave it!

So I decided to move it! Using lots of the tips in the various threads, I came up with this option:



This option gave me an opportunity to follow most if not all of the manufacturers rules for installing this thing.

I replaced all the aluminum fittings with steel while I was at it.

I only needed one extra fuel line which I ordered from Don at Airflow Performance. He made me one up with a 45? fitting on one end and coupled with the 45? adaptor fitting in the cube, this works out great!

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  #2  
Old 06-10-2009, 04:58 PM
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Default Can't see the last two pictures...

Didn't the direction for the FF cube say to keep it straight for a couple of inches on either side?

Kent
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  #3  
Old 06-10-2009, 06:10 PM
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Default

Doesn't look like enough slack in the line from the carb to the clamp on the mount, looks like you could just elimate the clamp. I know pictures can be decieving but this is just the way it appears to me.
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  #4  
Old 06-10-2009, 07:36 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt View Post
Doesn't look like enough slack in the line from the carb to the clamp on the mount, looks like you could just elimate the clamp. I know pictures can be decieving but this is just the way it appears to me.
Yes pics can be very misleading.....There is plenty of slack. One can move the line around +-1.5" or more in all directions on both sides of the clamp.
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RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2009, 07:44 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentb View Post
Didn't the direction for the FF cube say to keep it straight for a couple of inches on either side?

Kent
Pics are all hosted by same site...Try a refresh.

As for the question:

It appears per this post from E.I.,

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...50&postcount=4

that the documentation is based on the older Flowscan wants and needs and that the Red Cube cares not about these things.
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
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  #6  
Old 06-10-2009, 07:47 PM
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erich weaver erich weaver is offline
 
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Default

I dont know Brian - you might need one more bolt to make sure that support bracket doesnt fall off the firewall

just yankin your chain. Looks great.

erich
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  #7  
Old 06-10-2009, 07:54 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erich weaver View Post
I dont know Brian - you might need one more bolt to make sure that support bracket doesnt fall off the firewall

just yankin your chain. Looks great.

erich
I knew someone would raz me about that... Here is the deal on that: I originally riveted that bracket to the other side and I had to drill out those rivets. Due to access issues, I was less than perfect getting them out so a couple of the holes got a little trashed. Me being lazy, I did not want to remake the bracket and I wanted a couple bolts to go thru the firewall reinforce angle so I just went ahead and bumped all the holes up to #12 and used bolts. Way overkill but it won't fall off!
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Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
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  #8  
Old 06-11-2009, 11:07 AM
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kentb kentb is offline
 
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Default I still have a problem....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
Pics are all hosted by same site...Try a refresh.
With seeing the pictures. I don't understand but my browser (Iexplorer) show the last too links as broken. I tried putting the address in the explorer directly and they don't work for me. I assume it is something on my end.

http://i42.tinypic.com/de0irp.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/x6kc4i.jpg
don't work

http://i44.tinypic.com/20ksvhd.jpg

works.

Hey, I just tried change the i40 to i44 and I now see the picture.
That is also true with the i42 being changed to i44.
http://i44.tinypic.com/de0irp.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/x6kc4i.jpg

Now that I see the picture, your installation look the same as mine except the I used longer hose and straight connectors on the red box.

Kent
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  #9  
Old 06-11-2009, 12:22 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kentb View Post
Now that I see the picture, your installation look the same as mine except the I used longer hose and straight connectors on the red box.

Kent
Kent,

Thanks for paving the road! I copied some ideas from other links, must have been yours!
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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  #10  
Old 06-11-2009, 12:39 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt View Post
Doesn't look like enough slack in the line from the carb to the clamp on the mount, looks like you could just elimate the clamp. I know pictures can be decieving but this is just the way it appears to me.
Walt,

That one be an issue as the engine rotates, thus there is relatively little movement in the center.

Brian,

I do have one issue, and this is something our chapter TI's look for, you should not have a downhill "pouch" in your fuel line after leaving the gascolator. This can hold water and debris which may accumulate over time.

FYI, your first setup is exactly what I've been using for 240 hours. Your issue #3 is right on. I solved that by putting fire sleeve on it like you showed in your picture. Prior to that I was running just aluminum tubing and had four engine stoppages during my Phase I. After having the fire sleeve they have not reoccurred and I tried everything I could think of to get the engine to stop. Typically it took a long, slow glide to get enough heat back there to boil the fuel.

The U isn't subject to stress so there is very little chance it will crack. If this worried you, just support it at the top of the U.
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