VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #1  
Old 05-23-2009, 10:34 AM
Indiana Larry Indiana Larry is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 13
Unhappy Electroair (Jeff Rose) EI

I have been running with Electroair system for 300 hours on the right side with slick mag in left. I have the timing pickup for the Electroair in the right Magneto hole. It has been running just fine until 3 days ago. On runup, the EI took a couple of seconds to kick in when I turned off the slick mag. But it did then run the engine. I cycled this several times and it did this strange cutout twice and then operated normal. I flew that day around the field with no problems. But I did not do a mag & EI check when I landed before turning it off after the flight. The next day I looked things over and every fitting is rock tight. The engine starts and runs on the slick mag but will not run on the EI at all now. I've confirmed, it has power coming to it and the plugs are all fine.

I have called Electroair a couple of times and they have not returned my call. I also emailed them without a response. I am beginning to think they do not want to support my system but would prefer I go through Aircraft Spruce or one of the other dealers.

Has anyone got some words of advice for me? Larry -- grounded in Indiana
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:05 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,208
Default

Electroair is a small operation and you may have found a window of time where the handful of people running the business are out of pocket for some reason.

I recommend you keep trying to contact them.
__________________
Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:18 AM
rocketbob's Avatar
rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 8I3
Posts: 3,562
Default

Measure the resistance of the magnetic sensor with a DVM, if its open or shorted you need a new one. I think its supposed to measure 40 ohms, and would have to double check mine to verify. If you can't get a hold of Electromotive, you can get it here: http://www.electromotive-inc.com/sensors.html
__________________

Please don't PM me! Email only!

Bob Japundza CFI A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:49 AM
chaskuss chaskuss is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 1,499
Default A more reliable test

Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketbob View Post
Measure the resistance of the magnetic sensor with a DVM, if its open or shorted you need a new one. I think its supposed to measure 40 ohms, and would have to double check mine to verify. If you can't get a hold of Electromotive, you can get it here: http://www.electromotive-inc.com/sensors.html
Larry,
Bob is correct in using an ohm meter to inspect the magnetic sensors. This style sensor is used extensively in modern automobiles. I have often found defective sensors which would test good with an ohm meter. I found a more reliable test is to use a digital volt meter and set it on it's lowest DC voltage setting. For me, that is a 0 to 2 volt scale. The meter must be capable of reading thousandths of a volt. Connect the leads of the volt meter to the leads coming off the sensor, at the connector. Do this with the connector unplugged. Crank the engine over and watch for a very slight voltage signal (anywhere from .002 to .03 volts) The presence of voltage indicates a functioning sensor. No voltage means the sensor is bad.
It is common for the leads on the magnetic pick up sensor, to break right where they enter the sensor. Most of the time, the insulation is undamaged, so the wire "appears" intact.
Try wiggling the harness while performing the voltage test, to determine if this is the problem. If your sensor is bad and it's the older, 3/8" diameter style, I would suggest upgrading to the 1/2" diameter sensor. The upgrade will require that the mounting hole in the housing, be opened up to 1/2".

Charlie Kuss
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-23-2009, 12:00 PM
sabswbc sabswbc is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Granbury, Tx
Posts: 78
Default

Pull the plug wires off at the unit. Crank the engine and you should see a spark jump between the post. If not, take out the top plug and repeat the test. If you have a green led and no spark, take the unit out of the mag hole and attach a drill to turn the shaft. If you still don't have a spark, send the unit in for repair. If you do have a spark with the drill, something is making the unit think you do not have at least 100rpms.

You should be able to crank on the mag and the unit work fine. Remember, if you turn the unit off in a mag check, it take a couple of seconds before it will fire when it is turned back on.

If you are stranded, you can call me, (Sam 817-579-5771) and i will try to help.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-23-2009, 02:20 PM
Mitch757 Mitch757 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Falmouth, MA
Posts: 355
Default Electroair

Last week while ferrying an RV-8 from Oregon, we had the Electroair fail. We continued on with a borrowed magneto in place of the Electroair.

I left a message with the company and got a return call a few days later(after we got home). The gentleman said to measure resistance between the red and black wires out of the sensor. It should be between 600 and 800 Ohms. Also check for the +5 Volts at the top lug at the electronic box.

The Electroair rep said he would be unavailable for a few days..don't remember the reason.

Good luck,

Mitch Garner
RV-4 flying
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-23-2009, 03:25 PM
rocketbob's Avatar
rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 8I3
Posts: 3,562
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chaskuss View Post
Larry,
Bob is correct in using an ohm meter to inspect the magnetic sensors. This style sensor is used extensively in modern automobiles. I have often found defective sensors which would test good with an ohm meter. I found a more reliable test is to use a digital volt meter and set it on it's lowest DC voltage setting. For me, that is a 0 to 2 volt scale. The meter must be capable of reading thousandths of a volt. Connect the leads of the volt meter to the leads coming off the sensor, at the connector. Do this with the connector unplugged. Crank the engine over and watch for a very slight voltage signal (anywhere from .002 to .03 volts) The presence of voltage indicates a functioning sensor. No voltage means the sensor is bad.
It is common for the leads on the magnetic pick up sensor, to break right where they enter the sensor. Most of the time, the insulation is undamaged, so the wire "appears" intact.
Try wiggling the harness while performing the voltage test, to determine if this is the problem. If your sensor is bad and it's the older, 3/8" diameter style, I would suggest upgrading to the 1/2" diameter sensor. The upgrade will require that the mounting hole in the housing, be opened up to 1/2".

Charlie Kuss
Actually an even better test would be to use a scopemeter and check for an AC waveform, while running.

I have a friend that had problems with a 1/2" pickup, even after changing the sensor out for a new one. He ended up going back to the 3/8" sensor. With the teeth on the gear being so small, less current is induced with the larger sensor.
__________________

Please don't PM me! Email only!

Bob Japundza CFI A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-23-2009, 04:25 PM
Geico266's Avatar
Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Huskerland, USA
Posts: 5,862
Default

Dual Slick mags.
__________________
RV-7 : In the hangar
RV-10 : In the hangar
RV-12 : Built and sold
RV-44 : 4 place helicopter on order.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-23-2009, 05:49 PM
RVG8tor's Avatar
RVG8tor RVG8tor is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 1,261
Default Spirit

Larry,

Where is you pioneering experimental spirit. I am going all out, dual p-mags!

My comment is purely tongue and cheek, to each his own. I just like gadgets.

Cheers
__________________
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A (First Flight 12-12-12!)
KOCF
N800ME
www.mykitlog.com/rvg8tor


Dues Paid 2019
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-23-2009, 05:53 PM
N130WN's Avatar
N130WN N130WN is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 8A7 (NC)
Posts: 319
Default

I had somewhat similar problems once with ElectroAir. See here:

http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=52
http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=5
http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=18
__________________
Larry Bowen
RV-8 Built, sold, missed.
RV-7 Built, sold, missed.
RV-8 Emp in progress ...
RV-8A Purchased, flying.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:10 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.