sealing aluminum engine baffle at dynafocal holes

[tomhanaway]

Put on the back aluminum engine baffles. Some really large gaps around the two holes for the dynafocal/durometer mounts. Is there a recommended way to seal this area? By large gap I mean 1/4 to 3/4".
Thanks,
Tom H.
Rv-10
boynton beach, FL

[pierre smith]

We used red Hi-temp RTV on all the gaps, including those at the back. Also in the front, against the case, forcing all cooling air to go between the cylinders and to not let any escape. Three and a half years/ 450 hours later and it's all still in place.

Regards,

[Jim Percy]

I used an extra strip of baffle seal. You can kind of see it here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

[tomhanaway]

Looking closer, I realize that where the larger gap is goes right to the dynafocal mount which is mounted flush to the engine.

So, although there's a large gap at the entry hole through the baffle, it is effectively sealed off two inches later.

I'll be able to use either hi temp rtv or baffle seal but my concern isn't anywhere as big now.

Thanks,
tom

[Ironflight]

I use a bead of RTV alone for gaps up to about 1/4". Bigger holes than that I usually cut a piece of baffle seal to cover the gap and "glue" it in place with RTV - just uses less RTV.

Paul

[dedgemon]

Originally Posted by tomhanaway

Put on the back aluminum engine baffles. Some really large gaps around the two holes for the dynafocal/durometer mounts. Is there a recommended way to seal this area? By large gap I mean 1/4 to 3/4".
Thanks,
Tom H.
Rv-10
boynton beach, FL

The aluminum HVAC Tape works really well for this type of stuff and lasts forever. (Currently going on 5 years and 430 on my RV9A.

[dtw_rv6]

After I finished smearing gobs of red RTV on to fill some of the larger gaps in my baffles, a Long-EZ builder pointed out that you could work the RTV into a fiberglass cloth, and use it for doing "layups" to seal areas larger than what a small bead of silicone would cover, and would look fairly neat when dry.