plexi edge distance

Kokemiller · #1 05-02-2009, 12:41 PM

Just finished splitting the canopy and wind screen on my slider. Put my frame in and clamped all around and found I have the nessesary 1/16" overhang on the front bow except for the bottom 4-6", from this piont down the plexi is flush with the tube giving an edge distance of 5/16" to center of hole. Is this enough or should I elongate the hole for the latch handle to be able to move the plexi foreward?

ge9a · #2 08-22-2009, 08:41 PM

It appears that noboby responded to this post. I seem to have the same problem, or very nearly so, and would certainly appreciate some advice.

I have the 1/2" edge distance on the rear bow, but I won't have the 1/16" to 3/32" overhang past the forward bow near the bottom edges of the canopy (both sides, down low). The canopy is early flush with the forward bow at the height where I will end up cutting the canopy above the side rails for the side skirts.

How critical is the 1/16" to 3/32" overhang? I'm guessing the 1/2" edge distance at the rear bow (from the C/L of the rear bow to the edge of the canopy) is more critical and important. But I would like input from others on this subject.

Has anyone else run into this issue and found a solution (other than replacing the canopy!)?

Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

Lionclaw · #3 08-22-2009, 08:52 PM

If you haven't already drilled the canopy, it may be a good excuse to use sikaflex. I'm going that route on mine.

Kokemiller · #4 08-23-2009, 06:49 AM

I had the edge distance shortage prior to cutting bottom of canopy, once it was cut it allowed the plexi to move foreward enough to give me the proper edge distance. I ended up using sika and am real pleased with the results. Take your time, I built my slow build wings in 5 months, my slider took 2.5 months.

carguy614 · #5 08-23-2009, 07:24 AM

Greg.
I think you will be just fine with the overhang issue, as long as you have adequate material to provide proper edge distance to the drilled hole.
I ended up trimming my forward edge flush with the tube and it was fine. The layup over my roll bar came out great. It enabled me to generate a water and airtight seal with the use of a weatherstrip glued to the roll bar.

Hope this helps...
Chris

ge9a · #6 08-26-2009, 10:31 PM

Thanks for the replies.

I think I will be OK with cutting the front of the plexi flush with the forward bow. But when I do that, I only have about 15/32" edge distance between the rear of the plexi and the centerline of the rear bow. This short edge distance is only for about 4" or 5" long the rear bow; the rest of the rear bow is more than the 1/2" minimum called out on Dwg 43 (section G-G).

Any advice? Am I concerned about this for no reason?

carguy614 · #7 08-27-2009, 05:10 AM

I really think you will be OK with that edge distance. Mine is slightly shy across the front and back. Just make sure you have good clean holes that don't drag the screws, and don't over tighten the plexi to the frame. Also, if you are concerned about future cracks, Sikaflex is an option. I have no experience with it, but it has been used many times with apparent great success.

Good luck,
Chris

ge9a · #8 08-27-2009, 07:58 AM

Chris:

Thanks for the info. I'm planning to drill the plexi this weekend. I'll post my results here.

Greg

ge9a · #9 08-31-2009, 09:33 AM

I started drilling the plexi over the weekend, but I haven't finished yet. So far so good, but I'm not really to the "critical" part yet, where I have limited edge distance. Hopefully I'll finish the drilling tonight.