Patching tank after fixing leak...

danielhv · #1 03-25-2009, 07:41 PM

I drilled a 3" hole in the rear baffle, slopped some proseal along the inside rear baffle where the 3 rivets were leaking, cut a 4" round peice of .032 to patch it.... So whats the best way to go about this? Seems to me that solid pop rivets would be the cleanest method. Thought about platenuts and screws, only problem I see is there is only ~3/8" material on all sides of the patch that will overlap to the baffle. Seems kinda cramped for platenuts, countersinking, and screws... Plus i'd really like to minimize the amount of metal shavings that get lost into the tank... its already going to take some flushing from cutting the 3" hole...

airguy · #2 03-25-2009, 08:13 PM

I like the AD-42H closed-end pop rivet idea.

danielhv · #3 03-25-2009, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by airguy

I like the AD-42H closed-end pop rivet idea.

Will the AD-42H's work here? Is the material too thin (2 layers of .032) Not sure what the grip length is on them...

-Daniel

rv72004 · #4 03-25-2009, 11:42 PM

Would a couple of s/s self tapping sheet metal screws do the job ? The pro seal will also be holding the plate.
I got the same job comming up. My quickbuild tanks are faulty/leaky so I need to cut open and fix.

kiwipete · #5 03-26-2009, 03:01 AM

Daniel

Do you ever want acess through this hole again?
If you think you might why not make it an access plate. Copy the way the end plates are fitted. First put a reinforcing ring inside the tank which can have the platenuts fitted to it then screw on the cover with lots of proseal.
(see drwaing 16a)

Peter

PS Self tapping srews would be a big NO. Just asking for trouble.

danielhv · #6 03-26-2009, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiwipete

Daniel

Do you ever want acess through this hole again?
If you think you might why not make it an access plate. Copy the way the end plates are fitted. First put a reinforcing ring inside the tank which can have the platenuts fitted to it then screw on the cover with lots of proseal.
(see drwaing 16a)

Peter

PS Self tapping srews would be a big NO. Just asking for trouble.

To be honest, I hope to never open this tank again!

That being said, what is the chance of having to re-open it? I dont have enough .032 scrap to make anything bigger than a 4" hole, so it'd have to sit till I order some...

danielhv · #7 03-27-2009, 06:18 AM

Well guys, here is my fix.... Hope this is acceptable, cause its a done deal!! I ended up using AD-41H sealed blind rivets. Overall Im happy with the results. After I cut it open, I looked in to see where the leak was but saw nothing! No break in the proseal, nada. The "bead" that was formed between the tank skin and the rear baffle looked really nice. Anyway, I smeared a fillet inside, and closed it up. Hopefully I can be done with this tank.

Mel · #8 03-27-2009, 07:13 AM

That should work just fine. That's the way we did the covers when we stripped out the slosh compound a few years ago. We actually used a few more rivets, but I think yours will be fine.
BTW, when you hang the US Flag vertically, the star field goes on the viewer's left.

danielhv · #9 03-27-2009, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mel

That should work just fine. That's the way we did the covers when we stripped out the slosh compound a few years ago. We actually used a few more rivets, but I think yours will be fine.
BTW, when you hang the US Flag vertically, the star field goes on the viewer's left.

I'll change it when I get home today! Thanks Mel!

jthocker · #10 03-27-2009, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mel

That should work just fine. That's the way we did the covers when we stripped out the slosh compound a few years ago. We actually used a few more rivets, but I think yours will be fine.
BTW, when you hang the US Flag vertically, the star field goes on the viewer's left.

Mel,
I usually hate it when somebody "nitpicks" a post, but that is a very worthy "nitpick". Way to go!