Alodine 1201 vs. 1001

[Flying Scotsman]

Any difference? I'm getting ready to Alumiprep and then Alodine the inside of the forward fuselage skins (will be using PPG primer and paint once things are riveted together), and I don't really want yellowish-gold spots on the *outside* because I know the Alodine will migrate out through the rivet holes... So if the "clear" 1001 is the same as 1201, I'd prefer to use that...

TIA!

Steve

[chaskuss]

Steve,
Yes, the Alodine 1001 is the same product WITHOUT the gold dye in it. That said, what's so awful about the Alodine getting on the outside? The 1001 will leak out just like the 1201.
If you are planning on a polished bare aluminum exterior, I can understand your concern.
Are you planning on Alodining and prime/painting the outside later? If so, you won't be able to see the areas where you want/need to remove the Alodine that got on the outside, if you use the 1001.
The 1201 is generally preferred because the dye allows you to see any areas where your surface prep work was inadequate. Spots where the 1201 Alodine did not "take" to the aluminum are easy to spot and fix during the original Alodining session.
Why not simply Alodine all the pieces on both sides now? You can leave the outside parts without primer if you want to do your exterior painting later (as most builders do) Alodining the interior now and the exterior later will be double the work. (If you have a quick build, I realize that you can't "dip" the parts and this suggestion won't apply)

You can find a lot of good application tips here

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...hlight=Alodine

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...hlight=Alodine

Charlie Kuss

[Flying Scotsman]

You got it...planning a polished aluminum aircraft with minimal paint (fiberglass tips, cowling, etc.).

Thanks for the links! Much appreciated...

Steve

[Refelemele]

Originally Posted by Flying Scotsman

Any difference? I'm getting ready to Alumiprep and then Alodine the inside of the forward fuselage skins (will be using PPG primer and paint once things are riveted together), and I don't really want yellowish-gold spots on the *outside* because I know the Alodine will migrate out through the rivet holes... So if the "clear" 1001 is the same as 1201, I'd prefer to use that...

TIA!

Steve

Hi Steve,
The alodine 1001 and 1200 are not quite the same. The 1000 series has a low electrical resistance as well, allowing electricity to go trough the surface (mandatory in some cases for grounding purposes), so the color is not the only difference. As far as corrosion protection is concerned, I think they are pretty much the same, but if some technical specs call out for a specific alodine, you can't interchange them.

[Refelemele]

Hi Charlie,
Alodine 1201 and 1001 are not the same. The 1001 series has low electrical resistance. I guess that since it involves a metal to metal contact they kept the dye out of this one...
Mike.

[Refelemele]

Originally Posted by Flying Scotsman

Any difference? I'm getting ready to Alumiprep and then Alodine the inside of the forward fuselage skins (will be using PPG primer and paint once things are riveted together), and I don't really want yellowish-gold spots on the *outside* because I know the Alodine will migrate out through the rivet holes... So if the "clear" 1001 is the same as 1201, I'd prefer to use that...

TIA!

Steve

Hey Steve,
I forgot to mention something earlier on. The alodine must me thoroughly rinced after application. If you say that the alodine applied inside will bleed trough rivets holes, how do you plan to rince the stuff out? Both Alodine 1001 and 1201 will create salts then reacting with the surface. These salts will prevent primer bonding and possible cause corrosion if they are not removed properly. The other solution, if the rivets are not in yet, is to mask the holes with tape from the outside just long enough to apply the alodine...
For touch-ups, Alodine 1132 gives the same result as the 1200, but it comes in an applicator pen and is a rince free solution (just apply like a marker and is ready to pain as soon as it'S dry).
Hope this helps you.

Mike