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03-15-2009, 04:22 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bay Village, OH
Posts: 1,025
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*!#$%^* Nose Seal!
Oh great holders of those dirty Lycoming secret techniques . . .
How do you get the crank nose seal over the prop flange? I did a moderate search, found zip - other than when to change the seal . . .
ARGH!!!!!
Rick 90432 -short block done. One almost mistake - caught.
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03-15-2009, 04:28 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Satellite Beach, FL (KTIX)
Posts: 674
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Rick - Take a look at section 7-81 of the H2AD overhaul manual. Hopefully others have tips, because stretching it that much makes me nervous.
__________________
Andy Compton, PhD EE
RV-10 #41414, N643AC (building)
RV-7A #72158, N808PA (flying)
RV-9A #91638 (built,flew,sold,missed)
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03-15-2009, 04:34 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,061
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I've only done it once while building my engine at Superior and all I can say is that they had me stretch it way more than I thought it could be stretched. It's scary, but they tell me that it's no big deal. Just lube it up good first.
__________________
Steve Zicree
Fullerton, Ca. w/beautiful 2.5 year old son 
RV-4 99% built  and sold 
Rag and tube project well under way
paid =VAF= dues through June 2013
Last edited by szicree : 03-15-2009 at 09:46 PM.
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03-15-2009, 04:43 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 229
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The way I do it.
Wrap the flange with duct tape. Lubricate the seal. I use DC-4. Hook the seal under the bottom of the flange. Use two round shaft screw drivers to walk it the rest of the way around and behind the flange.
The seal will return to it's original dimension.
Right or wrong, that's the way I do it.
Randy Hooper
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03-15-2009, 05:22 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,779
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Yep... tape the flange and stretch the seal over the flange. Do not forget to remove the spring first, then put it back in place.
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
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03-15-2009, 05:40 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Vancouver, WA USA
Posts: 912
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Every thing you all said sounds good, we did one other thing when building our engine though, we put the seal in some very hot water to soften it up a bit first & used a special tool to stretch it around the prop flange.
Russ
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03-15-2009, 05:59 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,779
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Yep... you can even bring the seal to a slight boil in water to help. Check the flange for burrs too, if detected file them. Also, it would be a good time to fit a retaining plate to the front of the case halves. We also use Ultra Grey gasket sealer.
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
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03-15-2009, 06:03 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 8I3
Posts: 3,835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Hooper
Wrap the flange with duct tape. Lubricate the seal. I use DC-4. Hook the seal under the bottom of the flange. Use two round shaft screw drivers to walk it the rest of the way around and behind the flange.
The seal will return to it's original dimension.
Right or wrong, that's the way I do it.
Randy Hooper
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This is exactly the way I do it, except I use oil instead of DC-4. I've used the tool before, and found it will scratch the crank flange. I also shorten the spring about a quarter of an inch before I install it.
__________________
Please don't PM me! Email only!
Bob Japundza CFII A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
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03-15-2009, 06:18 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,295
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I had a leaky front seal after about 60 hours on my XP-360. I could actually rotate the seal in place (it's supposed to be 'glued' into place').
As others have said, remove the spring and you can get it over the flange. Yes, it will cause some facial contortions but that seal is surprisingly elastic.
__________________
"What kind of man would live where there is no daring? I don't believe in taking foolish chances but nothing can be accomplished without taking any chance at all." - Charles A. Lindbergh
Jamie | RV-7A First Flight: 7/27/2007 (Sold)
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03-15-2009, 06:29 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 269
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Had to replace one of these once, and a master showed me the trick...
- First, go to goodwill and get an electric frying pan. It will be used once -- for this.
- As others said, duct tape over the flange and grease over that.
- Put some oil in the pan and heat to 300 or so, with the seal in there. this takes maybe 10-25 minutes to make the seal essentially a noodle.
- Wearing gloves, fish out the seal, slap over the flange and work into place. It goes over the seal easily
- Let it sit at least a day (I let it sit a week, because I was on a business trip in the meanwhile) before turning the crank.
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