Starting a engine on electronic ignition.

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by nucleus

I can tell you that my dual p-mag IO-360 has been an easy starter since day one.

Hans

Same here and I don't have the start delay turned on. It fires on the first compression stroke.

As for the reason for the delay, it was to keep from blowing out composite sumps. Either way, it is easy enough to set up.

[rv6ejguy]

It's a stupid EI that is not programmed and designed correctly that you get kickback with. It they can't get that part right, the rest of it would worry me too.

With ours, you hit the starter button and it starts... what a concept.

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by rv6ejguy

It's a stupid EI that is not programmed and designed correctly that you get kickback with. It they can't get that part right, the rest of it would worry me too.

With ours, you hit the starter button and it starts... what a concept.

Exactly! It cracks me up when I have line guys comment on how easily my plane starts.

[Martin Sutter]

Ditto here. Superior IO-36- M1 with dual P-Mags. Easiest starting aircraft engine I ever flew, hot or cold.

Martin Sutter
building and flying RV's since 1988

[ao.frog]

I've dual P-mags and a Superior IO-360.

I've experienced a kickback during start once or twice so far (close to 50 hrs now)
It has been during the first start in the morning after the engine has been preheated to 75*F. (I always preheat during winter, it's coooold in Norway then)

Before start, I've been priming with the boostpump 4-5 sec's and mix full rich as I do on first starts in the summer. (I'm not using preheat in the summer ofcourse)

I was thinking that maybe I schould start the engine in winter (after using preheat) with the same procedure as I'm using for hot starts year around? That is to use boostpump only if fuelpress is below 15 PSI when turning power on? And then only for one second? (to get fuelpress indication)

What procedure do you people out there with dual P-mags use for startprocedure after using preheat?

Thanks.

PS: I don't mean to hijack this tread but I was thinking it was kind of related to the subject...

[Martin Sutter]

Alf, the key to starting the IO engine with electronic ignition is the throttle position. The throttle should NEVER be open more than about 1/8 of an inch when cranking, hot or cold. Opening it more than that will result in occasional ignition of the vapors in the intake. Unlike many injected engines that start best with the throttle wide open when hot, our configuration always starts best with the throttle only minimally open. Mine and several others who have the same configuration always starts in that configuration without fuss. My basic rule is always crank with mixture full lean and throttle open 1/8", hot or cold. If the engine has not run in the last 4hrs prime with boost pump while mixture is full rich and throttle 1/8". Duration of priming is adjusted for how long the engine has not run starting with 2 seconds if it is around 4hrs, 3-4 sec if it has been a day or more and an other second or two more if it is colder than 40F. It is better to underprime than to flood the engine. Try it, you will be surprised. I learned that method from a highly experienced neighbor of mine and it has worked flawlessly for me over 400hrs in flying my 7A from anywhere from the Golf Coast to Alaska.

Martin Sutter
building and flying RV's since 1988

[Kahuna]

I have about 2400 hours starting with injected RV motors:
1. 1 mag and 1LSE
2. 2 LSE's

I have always started on both for reasons stated by others. Never junked a starter. ALL of mine have been with a c/s prop which has more to do with the kick back problems than the EI ignition. Light props stop fast, kick back easier. Heavy props carry through and are less suseptable. Weak batteries also contribute to the problem.

Im sure you can find cases of any config and any outcome.
My experience only.

[David-aviator]

The issue is voltage. If the starter load pulls bus voltage down to less that 8 volts, electronic ignition can lose its brain and may fire at any time causing the kick back and broken starter ring. This is especially true with the EI system. I believe Light Speed has modified their system to where it will be ok down to 6 volts. EI recommends using the B&C starter to lessen the voltage drop under load. Don't know how the p-e mag system reacts to a less than 8 volt start.

I broke one starter ring with EI and started on the impulse coupled mag after that event.

[David-aviator]

Originally Posted by rv6ejguy

It's a stupid EI that is not programmed and designed correctly that you get kickback with. It they can't get that part right, the rest of it would worry me too.

With ours, you hit the starter button and it starts... what a concept.

No doubt very true with your system, Ross. But some guys have had an issue with the Subby ECU on start, the cause a mystery. On first start with the H6, the engine would fire after one or two blades but then sputter, choke, fxrt and generally act like I don't want to run and then suddenly it was up and running just fine. I attributed it to the ECU finding its brain and getting things organized electronically. It only happened on the first cold start of the day but some days it would just pop off and be normal.

Never did figure out what was going on. Some guys thought it could be an induction leak.

I am still on a learning curve the the IO360 and 2 mags with the AFP system. But that's a different issue concerning pre start fuel management, not electronic ignition. That will be settled as soon as decent weather returns and our runway becomes flyable again.

[Martin Sutter]

David, that is true with some E.I's but not with P-Mags. They have built in safe guard that prevents them from firing under those conditions.

Martin Sutter
building and flying RV's since 1988