Do you use an oil additive?

Webb · #1 02-23-2009, 03:20 PM

Just wondering....Does anyone out there use an oil additive when they change the oil?

If so why?

Radomir · #2 02-23-2009, 04:21 PM

Avblend...just warm and fuzzy... can't quote any science that would prove any benefit (that I actually would believe in)..

hevansrv7a · #3 02-23-2009, 05:34 PM

This one is not ashless dispersant and is not approved for aircraft. Even the inventor/manufacturer does not use it in his own airplane.

OK, now that I've covered the necessary disclaimers, I use TufOil, 8 oz to 7 qts. If anyone wants to know more, PM or email only. I would not have mentioned it, but my warranty from Superior is probably worthless anyhow.

Yes, I have considered AvBlend and CamGuard and of the two, I'd have to say CamGuard would be the choice. I've used both in the past, serially, not together. I'd still use CamGuard if I had any data on compatibility between TufOil and CamGuard, but I don't.

I specifically suggest not using Microlon notwithstanding FAA approval and anecdotal "evidence". Again, PM or email only for more on that.

It's your money and your safety.

Kokemiller · #4 02-23-2009, 05:58 PM

I use camgaurd in my O-235 powered colt. Corrosion was the cause of an overhaul 150 hrs ago and want to do all I can to keep it away, although flying regularly is the best antidote that the previous owners should have done. I plan on using it in my Barrett O-320 when it arrives for my 9a. My O-235 is running great so it must be working, right?

mannanj · #5 02-23-2009, 06:00 PM

I use Exxon "Elite". According to their propaganda, it has all the right stuff to be the best rust preventative in a Lycoming engine.

I'm sort of picky about such, as I got a good buy on a 1300hr total time since new Lycoming because of rust buildup that had started the camshaft and four cam followers to gall.

AlexPeterson · #6 02-23-2009, 08:13 PM

Regular doses of 100LL. Seems to be the best thing for engines.

gpiney · #7 02-24-2009, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannanj

I use Exxon "Elite". According to their propaganda, it has all the right stuff to be the best rust preventative in a Lycoming engine.

I'm sort of picky about such, as I got a good buy on a 1300hr total time since new Lycoming because of rust buildup that had started the camshaft and four cam followers to gall.

Our EAA chapter 898 had a presentation last month by the guy who formulated Exxon Elite. It was a very good presentation on engine lubrication and the problems that arise. He also formulated CamGuard. He didn't try to sell us anything, just present engine and lubrication facts.
When I get my engine in a couple of years, it will get CamGuard from Day One.

hevansrv7a · #8 02-24-2009, 08:35 AM

Since oil has many functions in the engine, so does or would an oil additive (in addition to the ones the manufacturer uses).

Corrosion resistance is one function of the oil and its additives.

Corrosion can come from water in the oil while the engine is not running (rust) and/or it can come from acids which build up in the oil from blowby of combustion products and maybe combined with water in the oil. H2SO4 is an example - suphuric acid.

Changing the oil is the only realistic solution for acids that form in the oil, no matter how they got there. Those acids can act on the metal in the airplane even while it is running. Oil additives can neutralize acids up to a point and then their capacity is exhausted and you get corrosion.

Water in the oil comes from water in the air condensing on internal parts when the dewpoint is reached and the dewpoint is a factor of temperature and absolute humidity - the amount of water suspended in the air. If the air inside the engine is dry then there will not be any water to condense.

Sadly, every time you shut down your engine, you create a rain forest effect because the hot air inside the engine has enormous capacity to hold water vapor and water vapor is one of the two major results of burning gasoline (carbon dioxide is the other). If you fly every day, then you have a good chance of re-coating the parts with oil before the oil film drips down and off. Who flies every day? Not I. Therefore the answer is to dry the air inside the engine before the oil film goes away. There are two approaches and several devices available and home-made is also very easy.

If you don't fly every day and if you don't use a dehydrator then my guess is that you will have rust in your engine. It's really pretty simple.

agough277 · #9 02-24-2009, 09:44 AM

The last Aeroshell 100 I used had the lycoming cam additive in it. Be careful what additives you use. Lycoming engines have a floating piston pin which can float if an inappropriate additive is used. Check for metal in your oil and if aluminum found follow Lycoming guidelines. Stop the use and see if metal continues. It could be a piston pin rubbing which is normal in new engines. You will be supprised as to how much metal in the oil is allowed. I had the above experience and blame it on using an unapproved additive on an older engine which I believe cleaned too well thus allowing the pins to float. I'm not an engine expert and this was my personal experience.

nucleus · #10 02-24-2009, 01:23 PM

I plan to do a Microlon treatment at first oil change. I will record the CHT pre and post. FAA approved BTW. I buy it from an old coot out in Cali I know a "Microlon John", he is an old pilot.

Hans