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02-05-2009, 06:58 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,069
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Elevator counter weight help
Looks like I drilled the holes for the counter weight backwards...was wondering if it might be ok to cut off the inside piece that is sticking out. Would this be taking off to much weight?
-7 with manual trim, left elevator.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
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Ryan Allen, CFII
RV7 N612RA, flying since july 2012
E-170/175
RV10 Tail Kit complete, Wings 90%, fuse on order
Acro Sport 2, building
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02-08-2009, 07:38 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Goshen, OH
Posts: 54
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From the looks of the picture, taking off the inboard protruding piece would take off a lot of weight, when you've already found it to be light. Also by doing this, the outboard rounded portion will not fit nicely into the fiberglass tip. It looks like you have already dimpled/countersunk the skin and weight, so trying to reposition and re-drill would be tough. Short of replacing the parts, I might try marking the proper hole location on the weight, then drilling it alone (carefully, in the same orientation as you originally drilled, so that the bolt will align all the way through) then countersink it again. If you're lucky it will line up properly and you will only be light by the amount of material that was drilled out. Anyone else have any ideas? Good luck.
Brad
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Brad Maxwell
RV-7 standard wing slowly being built (Wish I had more time!)
Cincinnati area (Goshen)
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02-08-2009, 07:45 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
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I would recommend you just wait to worry about this. Until you get the HS on the fuselage, and until you get your trim motor or cable in, you don't really know how much you will need to take off the weights. You might find out that you have more options once you get to the mounting stage. Good luck.
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
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02-08-2009, 08:15 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Victoria B.C.
Posts: 1,265
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Take the lead fillings and melt them and pour them back into the holes and redrill.
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02-08-2009, 08:48 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: KSLC
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norman CYYJ
Take the lead fillings and melt them and pour them back into the holes and redrill.
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After painting the elevators, I ended up adding all the lead back, that I previously drilled out. Did the melt and pour method with some pins drilled at angles to anchor everything.
L.Adamson --- RV6A
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02-08-2009, 10:15 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 1,419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L.Adamson
After painting the elevators, I ended up adding all the lead back, that I previously drilled out. Did the melt and pour method with some pins drilled at angles to anchor everything.
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You might not even need to do this - on my 7, the left elevator lead needed a fair sized chunk trimmed off once I got to balancing.
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02-09-2009, 01:47 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 1,261
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Same mistake
Called Van's and threy said melting shavings and pouring into the hole was ok. It worked like a charm. You can see what I did on my log site, the link is in my signature block. I used a cheap tin cup and my backpacking stove.
Cheers
Mike
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Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A (First Flight 12-12-12!)
KOCF
N800ME
www.mykitlog.com/rvg8tor
Dues Paid 2019
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