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01-10-2009, 10:36 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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starter diode
My ACS keyed starter switch came with a diode that is supposed to go on the Starter Relay. I had already purchased Vans "ES Diode Starter".
Are these diodes identical? Does it matter which one I use?
__________________
Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
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01-10-2009, 04:43 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Victoria, Canada
Posts: 2,247
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No, just keep it and reuse it for something else.
Vern
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V e r n. ====
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RV-9A complete
Harmon Rocket complete
S-21 wings complete
Victoria, BC (Summer)
Chandler, Az (Winter)
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01-11-2009, 08:19 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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how are they different? Which one shoudl I use?
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Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
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01-11-2009, 12:03 PM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prkaye
Are these diodes identical? Does it matter which one I use?
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You asked two questions here, and he just answered "no"-----
I suspect Vern was addressing Q2.
And, you are thinking he answered Q1--------
I am pretty sure that either diode will work here, but then again, I am not real versed in electronics.
Maybe send him a PM and ask for clarification??
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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01-11-2009, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Cary, N.C.
Posts: 1,216
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Diodes can be identified...
by looking to see if there is a "number" printed on them. The number ( if there is one) is on the body of the diode, along with a either a diode symbol, or a band (white, black, red...it needs to contrast with the material that the diode is encased in). For the number to be visible, the diode need to be large enough to actually print the number on the body of the diode. The painted band (or symbol) is used to identify the "cathode" side of the diode, and hence the direction of electron flow.
The diodes of today and quite small, so the "diode designation" my not appear at all on the body of the device. You will just have to trust that whoever sent it to you will have chosen the correct one.
The ones I received from Van's were encased in a heat shrink covering and it had a band marked on one end. That band denoted the cathode side of the diode. Also, Van went a step further in helping...The diode for the Starter Solenoid is encased with Blue heat shrink and the Master / Battery Solenoid is encased in Yellow heat shrink. Both have the band identifying the cathode end. Also, they have ring terminals attached so it is very easy to attach them to the solenoids in the proper orientation.
I also received a diode with the ACS switch. You may want to do a SB search on this item. In this case, ACS is not Aircraft Spruce, but is in fact AirCraft Controls. There is a (rather old) SB out on the older ACS switches...it seems some of the contacts within the switch were getting either burned, or pitted, or welding themselves together...I don't remember which. Anyway, the SB fix was to place a diode across the offending switch points (at the switch) and that helped to supress the arcing within the switch.
But now, we have the diodes across the solenoids, and that also solves the switch problem.
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01-11-2009, 06:30 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 251
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Be careful!
For what its worth. I had a diode from Vans that was connected incorrectly in the jumper. The result was starter motor engage as soon as master is turned on. Be very careful working in the engine bay around battery and contactors etc. You should always have battery disconnected etc.
Also, be careful to have a clear area for prop to spin/no one in front. I gave my building partner one **** of a scare!
Richard
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