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10-26-2005, 11:54 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,014
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Fast on connectors
I have been reading the Aeroelectornics book in preparation for starting some wiring and notice it refers to "fast-on" crimped connectors which look a lot like the automotive spade connectors, is this what most people use for connection to power busses etc? Are these different than the automotive parts for the higher vibration environment of an aircraft?
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10-26-2005, 02:29 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 878
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Faston connectors
The connectors Bob Nuckolls recommends are the PIDG (Pre-Insulated Diamond Grip) connectors. They are close, but not the same ones you'd buy at an automotive store - one difference is that the 'barrel' where you insert the wire is not split. There may be other differences as well (insulation material??), the AeroElectric Matronics list would be the place to get the answers. But they are automotive style connectors - nothing special for the A/C environment. BTW - this type of connector is also found on certified aircraft.
Lots of people use them (I'm planning to), now whether 'most' do or not is tough to say.
Dennis Glaeser
7A Wings
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10-26-2005, 03:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,061
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I got mine from B and C and I can assure you these things aren't vibrating loose! They are actually so tight that removal requires a little prying or a whole lot of wiggling.
Steve Zicree
RV4
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10-26-2005, 03:39 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,110
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I believe the biggest difference between the cheapy automotive ones and the pricier B&C ones is the plastic insulation. On the better ones (B&C and others) the insulation has a metal sleave in it. It's designed to clamp down on the insulation of the wire to immobilize the bare strands in the crimp. Same thing you'd want if you're soldering it to keep it from flexing and eventually breaking.
The cheapy ones you get a home depot don't have this sleave. The plastic mashes down around the insulation, but never grips that well to begin with. Also, it loosens up with time and eventually doesn't grip at all. I stopped using the cheapy ones years ago after melting down two batteries due to broken wires.
__________________
John Coloccia
www.ballofshame.com
Former builder, but still lurking 'cause you're a pretty cool bunch...
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10-26-2005, 05:22 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,014
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Fast-on connectors
Sounds like B&C here I come, now onto the one battery versus two and 12v versus 28V (just kidding  )
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10-26-2005, 08:48 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 2,471
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It's actually a number of things in addition to the extra sleeve. The sleeve is a support for the insulation, but in addition to that sleeve the aircraft quality terminals that many of us suppliers sell also have a fair bit of other things that differentiate them from their automotive counterparts.
Others have pointed out the sleeve, and also the faston itself is formed differently. You'll find them much more difficult to remove because they fit much tighther.
Also, the insulation on the terminal itself is Nylon on the aircraft terminals and Vinyl on the auto ones. This does make a good bit of difference, as the Nylon is much more durable, much less prone to cracking and all around better. A quick way to tell them apart aside from the additional sleeve is the color of the insulation. The poor/bad quality ones will have a very solid/opaque color and the nylon aircraft terminals will have a translucent / partially transparent shiny color that is much more pliable.
Last but not least is the material they are made of. Most auto type terminals are very thin or lightweight tin, or thin copper. The good aviation grade terminals are tin plated copper and much thicker than the auto ones, as well as having more "meat" on them. We buy these things 25,000 at a time to get the price down, but don't be fooled by buying the even cheaper ones available at auto parts stores.
Just my 2 cents after going through a couple hundred thousand of these ourselves!
Cheers,
Stein.
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10-26-2005, 09:36 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,110
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by SteinAir
Just my 2 cents after going through a couple hundred thousand of these ourselves!
Cheers,
Stein.
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Do you guys do anything when you make connections as far as corrosion proofing the thing? I've heard of people putting some sort of goop or oil or something over the connections. Is this just total overkill?
Ever wonder why RV builders (myself included) are obsessed with corrosion proofing everything? You'd think I'd be able to stick two wires together without worrying about that 
__________________
John Coloccia
www.ballofshame.com
Former builder, but still lurking 'cause you're a pretty cool bunch...
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10-28-2005, 01:34 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,014
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Connectors
OK a picture is beginning to form, how does this sound:
1. Crimped fast on connectors (aircraft grade) for power and ground buss connections
2. Gold plated pins (I assume crimped) for the (seemingly typical) DB25 connecters used for avionics (Dynon etc) and the allen trim servos
3. Crimped ring type connectors (again aircraft quality) for terminal blocks to connect such things as stick grip switches, landing lights, strobes.
4. Molex connectors for quick disconnects (wingtip electrics etc) if necessary
I notice also that some people use in-line fuses versus fuse blocks and assume these can be done with fast-on connectors also.
Does this sound about right?
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10-28-2005, 08:34 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 149
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Quote:
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Do you guys do anything when you make connections as far as corrosion proofing the thing? I've heard of people putting some sort of goop or oil or something over the connections. Is this just total overkill?
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My Last job was dealing with sound systems for a 1A University Athletics Dept. Anything outdoors or having to do with the pools recieved a liberal blast of Caig contact cleaner When making crimp terminations I would always blast the freshly stripped wire with some of the preserveIt before inserting the wire in the terminal. All other connections would get a bi monthly treatment of Deoxit followed by Preservit. Pots get cailube. I have also used the deoxit/preservit combo to great effect in my clubs old 172 on the headset jacks.
Jeff
__________________
9a Empennage
#91208
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10-29-2005, 09:49 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Eastern, PA
Posts: 828
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anti-oxidant paste
Quote:
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Originally Posted by jcoloccia
Do you guys do anything when you make connections as far as corrosion proofing the thing? I've heard of people putting some sort of goop or oil or something over the connections. Is this just total overkill?
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I think what you are thinking of is anti-oxidant paste. I put this over any quick connects that would be exposed to the outdoors. You can get this at Home Depot- OX-Gard (OX-100). Cessna used a similar paste on the terminations of the aluminum battery cables on the Cardinal. That is why the Cardinal with its aluminum battery cable does not suffer the problems of Piper's aluminum battery cables.
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