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  #1  
Old 01-08-2009, 05:58 PM
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flickroll flickroll is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Charlottesville, VA
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Default Decal Pro

I have seen mixed reviews on the Decal Pro. Some guys hate it and never get it to work. Some guys get it to produce great results but it appears there is a somewhat steep learning curve for good results. Question: what software is being used to produce the image for the decals? I think I'll try the device (they have a money back guarantee) and am curious about which software product works well with the device. Thanks
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RV-8 N52VV
Charlottesville, VA

AFS 4500 EFIS & 3400 EFIS/EM
G430W - SL30 - G327 - G696 - G240
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2009, 06:37 PM
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BuckWynd BuckWynd is offline
 
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Location: Rockford, IL
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Default

Any software that produces text or graphics will work, from MS Word to Adobe Photoshop, and everything in between. The product is more like a "procedure" than a device, although it does include a laminating machine.

I'm working with it right now to learn how to get the best results, and although I will say it's not dirt-simple, if you follow the instructions precisely, it does work well. In a couple of days, I'll have a more detailed report on the process and my results.
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Northern Illinois
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2009, 07:00 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
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Default

Jim,

The trick is the printer, not the software. I bought an HP Laserjet 1022 printer to print my images and it worked great.

FWIW, I did the images in MS Visio but could have used PowerPoint, Word, Excel, or whatever.
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Last edited by N941WR : 11-29-2009 at 01:13 PM.
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  #4  
Old 01-08-2009, 07:00 PM
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jsharkey jsharkey is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bennington, Vermont USA
Posts: 1,301
Default It Can Give Great Results

I used Word to create labels.

I had mixed results however in getting all of the text to survive the water bath part of the process intact.

I left a message on the company's help email and received a phone call almost immediately from the owner - on a Sunday - and from his vacation!

He walked me through the various tricks. The main one being to include a wide border frame around the graphic or text. This doesn't have to be transferred to the surface but it provides a seal that prevents water from getting in to the graphic from the edges and breaking it up on the transfer film. I hadn't included this feature on my text and was the reason why I was getting random breakups.

Jim Sharkey
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2009, 07:33 PM
Ken Ken is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 129
Default Decal Pro

Basically what you do is print your labels using a laser printer (not inkjet). Thus you can use any program that you are comfortable with that will give you the text font you like. Microsoft Word, etc.

I used Microsoft Publisher because I find it easy to move things around. Since my toggle switches are in clusters, I made some of my labels in groups which were easier to line up.

Hey guys we're building airplanes. There are learning curves in everything. There are lots of samples in the kit. I got the procedures down with some of the samples, then did a sample with one of my labels, then I was on my way. I had one phone question and got a quick answer. Make a mistake! Do it over! Easy.

I try to post a photo tomorrow. Really looks like I knew what I was doing.

Ken
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2009, 09:06 PM
N131RV N131RV is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Elmendorf,TX
Posts: 358
Default Not that hard

Quote:
Originally Posted by flickroll View Post
I have seen mixed reviews on the Decal Pro. Some guys hate it and never get it to work. Some guys get it to produce great results but it appears there is a somewhat steep learning curve for good results. Question: what software is being used to produce the image for the decals? I think I'll try the device (they have a money back guarantee) and am curious about which software product works well with the device. Thanks
I've used many different lettering techniques in the past.
Decal pro is actually pretty simple.
Follow the directions EXACTLY and after a couple of tries, you should have it down pat. The big thing is, the paper must be ABSOLUTELY dry before you try to fuse it. Doesn't hurt to watch the videos on the web site, either.

I got a cheap laser printer from Ebay for about $40 with free shipping. Worked like a charm. You can use any program that prints to do the graphics.I did mine with OpenOffice calc (Excel clone) as it made it easy to line up "columns" of text with borders.

It was tedious, but did produce good results for my panel. I estimate I "redid" about 20% of the labels due to my inability to place them correctly.

If I were to do it over again, I have a technique for placing the graphics perfectly (smacks head), but it came to me the day after I declared the job finished.

YMMV
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Joe Portman
N131RV - RV-7A, IO360A1B6, CS
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Airborne again at last! 2/21/2009

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  #7  
Old 01-08-2009, 10:24 PM
sjjonesnz sjjonesnz is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 147
Default Perfect placement

Quote:
Originally Posted by N131RV View Post
...I have a technique for placing the graphics perfectly...
Would you care to share it with us??
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Steve
Auckland, New Zealand

Flying RV-7QB/ZK-NVS/Aerosport 0320/Dual AF3500s/PMA8000B/GNS430W/SL30/GTX327/TT ADIP II
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  #8  
Old 01-08-2009, 10:30 PM
N131RV N131RV is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Elmendorf,TX
Posts: 358
Default Technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by sjjonesnz View Post
Would you care to share it with us??
Well. When I do "peel and stick letters", I always place them first, using a pencil line at the top and a "hinge" of transparent tape across the top. Once they are perfectly placed, I flip the letters up, then peel them, and flip them back down and smooth them out. Pefect alignment.

The same technique could be used with these graphics.

IE, create the graphic, let it dry and then place it where you want it. Use the tape along one edge. Flip it back and spritz with adhesive, flip it down and do the transfer.

It's just a thought, but one I am going to try on my next panel lettering job.

YMMV
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Hangared since 11/23/2011, working on getting airborne again!
Joe Portman
N131RV - RV-7A, IO360A1B6, CS
Rebuilt as TD
Added dual MGL EFIS.
Airborne again at last! 2/21/2009

Elmendorf, TX (28TE)

baron (AT) baron (dot) com
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  #9  
Old 01-08-2009, 10:49 PM
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craigvince craigvince is offline
 
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Location: Stockton, CA
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Default Pics?

Could some of you post pictures of your results from this system?
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2009, 11:55 AM
thallock thallock is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 333
Default

Joe,

That's a great idea, I'll have to use it.


Craig,

I did some experimentation with DecalPro back in October of 2006. It took some practice, but eventually I got the process down. I worked with Frank, the owner of DecalPro, when I was having some problems, and he modified his instructions, based upon some of the things that were giving me a problem. As stated before, the key is getting the paper dry, using a border to protect the image during the water bath, and proper technique when spraying on the adhesive and when peeling back the carrier.

Although this information might be a little dated, my results are on my website at http://www.trv7.com. Click on "Extra Credit", then "Instrument Panel Labels", then "Decal Pro Labels".

Tracy.
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