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  #1  
Old 12-26-2008, 03:42 PM
UnPossible's Avatar
UnPossible UnPossible is offline
 
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Default Dimple Die for #10 screw

Hey - I'm working on the rudder, and the plans say to dimple the counter balance rib for a #10 screw. Unfortunately, my Cleveland kit didn't come with a #10 dimple die set. Now my question is how often is the #10 dimple die set used (FYI - I just ordered quickbuild wings and fuselage). If its used frequently, I'll just order a set. However if not, I may try and borrow one from some local RV builders to finish the rudder.

Thanks,
Jason
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2008, 04:04 PM
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It's used once, and it's hardly worth buying one.

You can make a female dimple die by drilling a 1/8" hole, countersinking with your 1/8 countersink, then drilling for a #10 screw tap hole and tapping to 10-32.

The male dimple die is actually the #10 screw itself. With the aluminum web in between, tighten it into the dimple die that you made (a little Boelube under the screw head helps). Remove it and voila, you have the dimple you need.

Vern
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Last edited by vlittle : 12-26-2008 at 06:03 PM.
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  #3  
Old 12-26-2008, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlittle View Post
It's used once, and it's hardly worth buying one.

You can make a female dimple die by drilling a 1/8" hole, countersinking with your 1/8 countersink, then drilling for a #10 screw tap hole and tapping to 10-24.

The male dimple die is actually the #10 screw itself. With the aluminum web in between, tighten it into the dimple die that you made (a little Boelube under the screw head helps). Remove it and voila, you have the dimple you need.

Vern
Yup. This will work but you will need to tap the hole with 10-32 threads if you plan to use a screw that comes in the kit.
Another way is to use a long enough screw (and/or thin enough die material) that you can just put a nut on the other end to pull up the screw. Then the screw doesn't have to rotate against the material you are dimpling.
The easiest way is to ask someone to bring there dies and a squeezer to an EAA chapter meeting and be done with your parts in about 30 seconds ( it does a little nicer job also).
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  #4  
Old 12-26-2008, 06:05 PM
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I stand corrected on the thread pitch (changed my post). Good idea Scott on using a nut to tighten the screw through the shop-made die.

Of course, I have a #10 dimple die. I get to use it again (I hope) on my next airplane.

Vern
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  #5  
Old 12-26-2008, 06:52 PM
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Default Slight Variation

I used the method Vern posted except I didn't thread the home made die. I drilled the hole where a #10 bolt would fit, then I used the rivet gun with a flat set against the screw. Viola, perfect dimple.
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Last edited by Don Jones : 12-26-2008 at 06:54 PM.
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  #6  
Old 12-27-2008, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Don Jones View Post
I used the method Vern posted except I didn't thread the home made die. I drilled the hole where a #10 bolt would fit, then I used the rivet gun with a flat set against the screw. Viola, perfect dimple.
I agree that Don's technique is even better. The screw alone does work but it has no flat area adjacent to the screw head to reform the surrounding material like a dimple die set does. Using the flush rivet set compensates for that.
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  #7  
Old 12-27-2008, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnPossible View Post
Hey - I'm working on the rudder, and the plans say to dimple the counter balance rib for a #10 screw. Unfortunately, my Cleveland kit didn't come with a #10 dimple die set. Now my question is how often is the #10 dimple die set used (FYI - I just ordered quickbuild wings and fuselage). If its used frequently, I'll just order a set. However if not, I may try and borrow one from some local RV builders to finish the rudder.

Thanks,
Jason
Jason. I've got one you're welcome to borrow if you'd like. Send me your address to bcollinsrv7a (at)comcast.net and I can pop it in the mail.
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