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  #1  
Old 12-16-2008, 06:05 AM
dustman dustman is offline
 
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Default baffle seals

Here is one for the experts, Is it necessary to have a baffle seal where the air box meets the cowling? I have about a ? of clearance between the air box and the cowl. Why wouldn?t a bead of silicon at the junction of the two surfaces work, if a seal is needed? I?m going to put the baffle seal in the old fashion way but was curious about other alternatives.
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  #2  
Old 12-16-2008, 06:38 AM
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There is a lot of relative motion between the airbox and the cowl - I think that you need the flexibility of baffle seals to let things move around.

Paul
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  #3  
Old 12-16-2008, 08:35 AM
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And you'll probably want more clearance or getting the cowling on and off is going to be a pain. I've got about 3/8" and am thinking of trimming the cowl a bit more.
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  #4  
Old 12-16-2008, 09:28 AM
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Default Here is a trick to help...

Quote:
Originally Posted by flion View Post
And you'll probably want more clearance or getting the cowling on and off is going to be a pain. I've got about 3/8" and am thinking of trimming the cowl a bit more.
Mount your baffling material on the sides and bottom of the snoot only, wrapped around like a "U". Attach a straight piece to the Air Box to seal the top. This makes it much easier to put the Cowl on and off.
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  #5  
Old 12-16-2008, 09:39 AM
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What is the best attachment method to get the material fastened to the snoot?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
Mount your baffling material on the sides and bottom of the snoot only, wrapped around like a "U". Attach a straight piece to the Air Box to seal the top. This makes it much easier to put the Cowl on and off.
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  #6  
Old 12-16-2008, 10:13 AM
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Default Varies....

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Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
What is the best attachment method to get the material fastened to the snoot?
I believe the plans call for large washers and pop rivets similar to the Engine Baffle and Cooling Ramp. I used screws with a nylon washer, large washers on the back side with locknuts. I used pop rivets on the Air Box piece.
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  #7  
Old 12-16-2008, 11:04 AM
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Bolts and washers....Ok.

I doubt one could get a pop rivet gun in there so that must be the way to go....
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  #8  
Old 12-16-2008, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
I doubt one could get a pop rivet gun in there so that must be the way to go....
FYI: the seals go on the airbox, not the cowl.
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2008, 12:51 PM
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Not if you want to follow JonJay's advice.......

His idea is to have a U shaped piece on the cowl snout and a flat piece on the airbox top. When together they makeup the seal. This makes the cowl easy to lower down away from the airbox.

The plans and directions show the seal attached to the airbox but the smart people here at the VAF have deviated from the directions.
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Last edited by Brantel : 12-16-2008 at 12:53 PM.
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2008, 01:10 PM
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<<The plans and directions show the seal attached to the airbox but the smart people here at the VAF have deviated from the directions.>>

Assume pressure at the intake opening of the lower cowl is higher than pressure inside the lower cowl (and it probably is). Why install a flap seal backwards so it leaks under pressure (loss of manifold inches), and raises lower cowl pressure (bad for cooling) in the bargain?
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