Question on marking parts

[BrentHumphreys]

After doing the initial assembly, my normal procedure is to mark the parts with a sharpie so that I know that this rib goes in this spot, etc.

After doing all of the deburring, and dimpling, I use a scotchbrite pad to scuff up surfaces before priming.

The last step prior to prime is to glove up and wipe everything down with acetone or some other solvent to remove fingerprints, scotchbrite, etc.

My question is, how does everybody else maintain their sharpie marks when wiping down parts?

I have kept a sharpie handy and remarked parts after I wipe them, but that is really a pain.

[N131RV]

Usually I tried to keep things clecoed together at all times up until final assembly. IE, only one part out, etc.

For items that needed "permanent" marking, I used an auto-punch and made matching dot patterns close to the mating surfaces. Unless you sand very hard, those dots will be there.

Just how I did it.
YMMV

[flytoboat]

I'm using an electric vibrating engraver.

[BrentHumphreys]

Originally Posted by N131RV

Unless you sand very hard, those dots will be there.

I am not worried about the scuffing. The acetone removes the sharpie marks.

Originally Posted by flytoboat

I'm using an electric vibrating engraver.

Doesn't that create a weakness? Just like the reason we deburr parts to remove stress risers.

[Webb]

I asked vans about it and answer was it was ok. If it was a no no, you won't see it on the spar that comes from them.

The engraver leaves a series of little dots.

[DaX]

Take a look inside any part of my airplane and there is black sharpie everywhere.

[Jeff R]

I would write the part number on both sides, then after cleaning one side with acetone I would rewrite the number and then clean the other side. The numbers will show through a thin coat of primer. If you have marks to make, such as for alighment purposes, this method might work, or you can lightly punch some marks.

[bullojm1]

I agree the electric engraver is the way to go. It shows up well through most primers and is cheap. I bought mine at Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46099

[JonJay]

A degreaser/wax remover will not take your marks away unless you saturate it or rub hard. I use Kleanstrip PrepAll. It is available at any good auto body supply store. PPG also makes DX330 but it is very expensive. I found PrepAll does just as good of a job and is relatively cheap.
Wipe it on, then wipe it off with a clean rag. If it is a finished part, like the instrument panel or interior, go over the part with a tac cloth. Your then ready to paint, marks intact.

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by BrentHumphreys

Doesn't that create a weakness? Just like the reason we deburr parts to remove stress risers.

Doesn't that create a weakness? Just like the reason we deburr parts to remove stress risers.

Why risk creating a stress riser, even if Van?s OK?s it?

What I did was to lay two 2x4 across some saw horses, removed the ribs, laid them across the 2x4's and mark on the edge of the 2x4 where each rib number (1 through 15). Then when I aluminipreped, alodined, and primed each rib, it went back to its pre-assigned location on the 2x4?s. When the primmer dried, I would write the rib number on it with my blue sharpie.

Easy enough. I would also do the same with smaller parts on my painting table.