What tools to buy for Plexiglass work?

ArVeeNiner · #1 12-15-2008, 01:58 PM

Hi all:

I think I'm going to install my sliding canopy with screws rather than the Sika Flex method so, what tools do I need to do this?

Avery has the Plexiglass drill set which is essential. They also have an edge scraper (https://www.averytools.com/p-410-ple...e-scraper.aspx). Is this something that is useful?

What about ensuring that the cut edges and holes are nick free? I know where to get up to 4000 grit sandpaper locally but I don't know where to find Emery cloth. Any tips regarding what to use and where to get it? Is wet sanding an acceptable method to get the edges baby's behind smooth? Also, what do you use for deburring holes? Not the standard aluminum deburring tool right?

On a side note, my lovely and understanding wife just purchased me a set of Crow harnesses for Christmas!!! Woo hoo!! Well, actually, I ordered them and she's going to pay me back. Plus she'll wrap them and I'll act surprised on Christmas day!! But at least I didn't get a tie or a loaf of fruitcake!!

LettersFromFlyoverCountry · #2 12-15-2008, 04:16 PM

The only thing I needed was a belt sander to knock the edges down (every time I made any cut, I knocked the edges with the belt sander, then sanded everything down to 600 grit. Overkilll!)

By lots of masking tape, duct tape...and of course, face protection.

mburch · #3 12-15-2008, 04:24 PM

Here are some of the notes I wrote down while I was building the canopy, including which tools I found useful: http://www.rv7blog.com/docs/canopy-notes/

If you have time to read it and you don't mind the lack of organization, I tried to document my canopy construction in detail to help out other folks... since when I was doing it there seemed to be a lot more photos of the tip-up than the slider available on the web. http://www.rv7blog.com/category/fuselage/canopy/

Don't do absolutely everything I did, since my next airplane's canopy is going to be a lot better.

good luck,
mcb

roee · #4 12-15-2008, 04:29 PM

I'm working with this stuff right now. What's worked well for me with cutting and dressing the edges is as follows:

1. Apply 3 layers of blue masking tape to create a guide for the cut (i.e. so you will cut just outside the tape). The idea is not to touch the masking tape with the cutting disc. But if you slip slightly, the 3 layers should give your canopy some measure of protection.

2. Cut using the cutting disc from Van's mounted in an air drill, NOT a die grinder. The air drill has more torque at low RPMs, which makes it more controllable and leaves a more accurate cut. Do the cut in 3 passes: First real shallow just to create a guide, second go about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way through, and third to finish the cut while supporting with tape to ensure it doesn't break off.

3. Sand the edge with a sanding block to remove any excess materials and any tool marks. I start with 60 or 80 grit, then transition through the grits up to 400.

4. Use the scraper tool to chamfer and round over the corners. A few passes with the large V notch followed by a couple of passes with the round notch produce a nice result.

5. Another pass with 400 grit sandpaper in the palm of my hand (no sanding block) to round over the chamfers some more.

The results produced by this process are more than sufficient, I think, for the initial cuts. After final fitting is complete, I may step through some even finer grits of sand paper to really polish the edge. But I suspect that the value in that is mostly aesthetic. The 400 grit already leaves a pretty smooth edge that shouldn't be prone to cracking.

I have not drilled any holes yet in my canopy. But yes, the purpose-made plexi drill bits are highly recommended. They leave a smoother hole and reduce the chances of cracking.

BTW- I was able to find the plexi drill bits and scraper at a local plastics shop in my area. Not trying to take business away from the good folks at Avery, but in this case the local shop was just more convenient for me and a little bit cheaper -- no shipping.

rwhittier · #5 12-15-2008, 04:53 PM

I just finished most of this stuff. I did not use the scraper, used sandpaper instead. I did not know about it, but cheap, worth a try.

Cutting with the Vans supplied wheels is easy, but patience is the big thing. I used a Die Grinder with a 3 inch extension, which made it extremely easy to control http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93621 But I like the other suggestion posted here of a drill motor since it really needed a bit more power and you could drag it down if not careful. Power vs control, you will have to experiment and choose.

I found drilling the holes to be tedious. 112 holes, not one cracked. But I went slow, slow, slow. As I felt the drill come through the other side I slowed even more. Then I countersunk the top holes and then enlarged the holes from the back side with a 5/32 unibit. That took care of the burrs that were there, but I still intend to look at each with a magnifying glass and smooth however necessary so none crack.

Good luck.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArVeeNiner

Hi all:

I think I'm going to install my sliding canopy with screws rather than the Sika Flex method so, what tools do I need to do this?

Avery has the Plexiglass drill set which is essential. They also have an edge scraper (https://www.averytools.com/p-410-ple...e-scraper.aspx). Is this something that is useful?

What about ensuring that the cut edges and holes are nick free? I know where to get up to 4000 grit sandpaper locally but I don't know where to find Emery cloth. Any tips regarding what to use and where to get it? Is wet sanding an acceptable method to get the edges baby's behind smooth? Also, what do you use for deburring holes? Not the standard aluminum deburring tool right?

On a side note, my lovely and understanding wife just purchased me a set of Crow harnesses for Christmas!!! Woo hoo!! Well, actually, I ordered them and she's going to pay me back. Plus she'll wrap them and I'll act surprised on Christmas day!! But at least I didn't get a tie or a loaf of fruitcake!!

roee · #6 12-15-2008, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwhittier

I just finished most of this stuff. I did not use the scraper, used sandpaper instead. I did not know about it, but cheap, worth a try.

The scraper is useful, but in any case it's not a substitute for sand paper.

I found the scraper to be useful for quickly chamfering the edges, which is done using the notches in the scraper.

You can also use the flat side of the scraper tool (the side opposite the notches) to smooth out the "face" of the edge, but I didn't like the results so much. Using sand paper in a sanding block for this purpose was easier, and produced a more uniform edge. YMMV.

And in any case, finish everything off with sand paper to remove any remaining tool marks or non-uniformities.

Captain Avgas · #7 12-15-2008, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArVeeNiner

Hi all:

I think I'm going to install my sliding canopy with screws rather than the Sika Flex method so, what tools do I need to do this?

Kelly, In my opinion the most important tool of all for fabricating the canopy is one that very few builders have used....a 100 degree countersink from Perma-Grit. See here.
http://www.permagrit.com/index.php

Most canopy cracking initiates from microscopic chips at holes, simply because they have not been properly fabricated. This almost always occurs when the drill breaks out the underside of the hole. Even the so called "plexi drill bits" sold by Avery can easily cause damage. They're obviously better than standard drill bits but they are NOT foolproof. And the larger the hole the more likely there is to be damage.

The answer is to drill the initial holes to 3/32 and then countersink the underside with the PermaGrit countersink to a diameter larger than your next drill size. The PermaGrit countersink is made of tungsten carbide grit and cannot cause any damage to the plexi.

If the underside countersink is just SLIGHTLY larger than the next drill bit there will be no damage as the drill breaks through as the edge cannot break away.

At any rate I would not use any drill bits ("plexi drills bits" or otherwise) above 1/8". Beyond that I recommend a step drill with fine increments.

After all the holes are finished I recommend you use the PermaGrit countersink to ensure that you have a positive chamfer (very very slight countersink) at the top AND bottom of all holes. That will remove all sharp edges and any existing microscopic flaws. DO NOT USE A STANDARD FLUTED METAL COUNTERSINK OR DEBURRING TOOL FOR THIS !!!

And likewise use the PermaGrit countersink for countersinking the plexi to accomodate any aluminium dimples.

And remember the most important rule of all......NEVER EVER use the aircraft to learn new skills on. Practice first on scrap.

ArVeeNiner · #8 12-15-2008, 10:20 PM

Thanks for all the tips. I'm spending tonight taking notes, looking at web pages, reading directions, and looking at drawings. I bought some kerosene for the garage heater ($5 a gallon!!) and ordered a hand held belt sander.

Tomorrow I'm going to take a trip to the local Bay Area plastic place (Tap Plastics) to get some drill bits, an edge scraper, and some more knowledge. I'm in no hurry...I want to go sloooooow.

CESSNADON · #9 12-16-2008, 03:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArVeeNiner

Thanks for all the tips. I'm spending tonight taking notes, looking at web pages, reading directions, and looking at drawings. I bought some kerosene for the garage heater ($5 a gallon!!) and ordered a hand held belt sander.

Tomorrow I'm going to take a trip to the local Bay Area plastic place (Tap Plastics) to get some drill bits, an edge scraper, and some more knowledge. I'm in no hurry...I want to go sloooooow.

While you're at the plastic's place buy or scrounge a couple of small pieces of plexiglas to practice drilling. The most critical time inthe drilliing is when the bit breaks through the plastic. If you have the space to do so, drill the canopy till the tip of the bit just breaks through, then complete the hole from the other side.

alpinelakespilot2000 · #10 12-16-2008, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArVeeNiner

I bought some kerosene for the garage heater ($5 a gallon!!) and ordered a hand held belt sander. .

Although a belt sander will work, you'll be able to control a palm sander much better. The plexi is so soft that it comes off quick no matter what you use. Even on wood, belt sanders can do a lot of damage real quick. Knowing that, I went the more conservative route.

Knock on wood, but I'm actually one of those who thinks much ado is made out of cutting the canopy. So long as it's warm (I did mine in the 95-degree summer sun) and you clean up the edges to 400-grit like Van's recommends, you should be OK. I think I remember an RVator where somebody at Van's also endorsed the chamfer perma-grit bit in the dremel that Bob mentions. If I ever did this again, I'd probably go that route just for a little extra insurance.

Good luck though as you get started.