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  #1  
Old 12-09-2008, 04:57 PM
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miyu1975 miyu1975 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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Default Torque Wench

How soon into my project will I need an Inch/pounds torque wrench? I was looking for one last weekend at Harbor Freight but they only had foot pounds. Just wondering if I would need this right out of the gate.
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  #2  
Old 12-09-2008, 05:22 PM
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jetjok jetjok is offline
 
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Default Whoa!

A torque wrench is a tool that you will use throughout the build and for a long time after. I would only buy a HF torque wrench if you plan on using it for a pry bar, because I guarantee you that it will not be calibrated, and even if it is, it will not stay that way for long!
I would start with a Craftsman wrench as a minimum standard. No matter what brand you buy, take it for a calibration check before using it.Then after you use it for a while, have it calibrated again, especially if you drop it a few times, or use it to break bolts loose.
Good luck!
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Last edited by jetjok : 12-09-2008 at 05:23 PM. Reason: typo
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  #3  
Old 12-09-2008, 06:04 PM
Flying Scotsman Flying Scotsman is offline
 
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Default

I like the CDI products (http://www.cditorque.com/main.html). They have one in the lower range of torque values that you need for AN3's and 4's.

I was taught you need to have them recalibrated if you drop them even once, but that might be overkill.
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  #4  
Old 12-09-2008, 06:11 PM
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GAHco GAHco is offline
 
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Location: Paso Robles, CA
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Default Ha! Ha!

Your title of your post is Torque Wench.

Is that subliminal outpouring of how your woman feels about the project, or are you weelated to Elmer Fudd?

Sorry I cant pass up a punny situation.

But but seriously get the best Inch # torque wrench you can afford, you will have it a life time and an accurate one could save you much grief and expense. The one I have is a 30 to 100 in# Snap on I love it. For lower than 30 in# I have a click type 2 to 36 in# screwdriver.

I have the one that is similar to page 7, but mine goes to 36 in#.

I put the hex drive to socket adapters and use it for nuts 10-32 and smaller.

http://www.coopertools.com/catalog/p.../SP-301_EN.pdf

Best wishes.
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  #5  
Old 12-09-2008, 07:22 PM
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Vlad Vlad is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Utah
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Default Park tool TW-1 and then more expensive ones

Two years ago somebody on this forum mentioned about beam wrench from Performance Bicycle. I ordered it.The wrench served me good through empennage and wings mostly for AN3. Then I bought other two - one beam and one click of different gradation for other tasks.
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  #6  
Old 12-09-2008, 07:32 PM
N208ET N208ET is offline
 
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Location: St. Helens OR
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Default craftsman microtorque

works great
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  #7  
Old 12-09-2008, 07:47 PM
szicree szicree is offline
 
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Default

Park makes two sizes of the beam type and they work fine. They very reasonably priced, don't go out of calibration and it's kind of reassuring to see the thing work.
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  #8  
Old 12-09-2008, 07:53 PM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Just a few months ago Light Plane Maintenance had an article comparing the accuracy of cheap harbor freight torque wrenches vs. expensive ones like SnapOn. The conclusions were the cheap ones were just as accurate, but did not last as long as the more expensive ones.
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  #9  
Old 12-09-2008, 07:57 PM
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Steve that was you who recommended TWs years ago. Thanks.
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2008, 08:48 PM
RScott RScott is offline
 
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Location: Estacada, OR
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I bought a Park TW-1, which measures 0-60 inch pounds for less than $33. They are regularly on Ebay for about $35 plus about $8 shipping. This torque wrench is sold to bicycle shops and you may find one locally, but they seem to always be available on Ebay.

The correct procedure is described in AC 43.13 on page 7-6, para 7-40c. You will notice that nutplates have quite a bit of drag on them, as do the nylock nuts. This drag must be added to the target torque value to get the correct result, which means you must somehow measure the amount of drag. You can't do that with a clicker type torque wrench; you need a dial type or a beam type, which the Park is.
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