Rants

RV7ator · #1 10-12-2005, 09:23 PM

I owned an 1970 Road Runner (That was a muscle car, kids.). The only access to the #7 spark plug was between headers, firewall, frame, and the starter motor housing - just enough clearance to get one click's worth of arc out of the ratchet. Well, sir, every time you changed plugs (each 10,000 miles back then) the combination of tools that I had and access guaranteed blood because there was no way after the plug broke free that you could arrest your movement before scraping a knuckle on the starter housing.

That's a long way 'round the barn introducing Rants (The Whining), this time about RVs, and certain miserable tasks that don't get any easier with repetition, bringing with them the probability of frequent failure on the path to completion rather than simply enduring drudgery, e.g., deburring wing ribs, until the job's done.

Maybe those who have yet to encounter these blessed activities will have instant success, at least be forewarned to gird up their patience for the encounter. That's the positive aspect of this post which is, at its heart, my equivalent of stepping out the shop door and screaming at the top of my lungs. Then going back in and get it done.

1. Forming shop heads on the aileron-to-bellcrank pushrod rivets.

These puppies hold the studs in the ends of the tube. First off, the drawing calls out too long a rivet. You're trying to squeeze/buck these without them cleating over which is very, very likely, because they're being squashed onto a small diameter surface. Substituting steel pop rivets would require identifying, locating, and buying eight from somewhere. Can't use screw/nut because the profile must be kept low to penetrate the rear spar. Oh, looky here! Van's says you can substitute welding! Cool. "Dear? I need to buy another tool."

2. Installing spacers and nuts holding the slider roll bar and canopy tracks.

I lack several extra joints in my too few fingers that would ease this job of reaching up, around, and past the fuse longerons to engage nuts onto bolts/screws, all the while keeping previously installed spacers and washers precariously clinging to the threads from following their gravitational instincts. Oh, yes. They fall into the center section or through some small gap past the already riveted floor that I failed to cover with a towel before starting the procedure. Some combination of popsicle sticks, double back tape, wedges, and finally, a box wrench with a peculiar kink in the handle will eventually yield success. This is all done by braille, BTW.

There. I feel soooo much better!

John (Repeat Offender) Siebold
Boise, ID

N941WR · #2 10-13-2005, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV7ator

I owned an 1970 Road Runner (That was a muscle car, kids.). The only access to the #7 spark plug was between headers, firewall, frame, and the starter motor housing - just enough clearance to get one click's worth of arc out of the ratchet. Well, sir, every time you changed plugs (each 10,000 miles back then) the combination of tools that I had and access guaranteed blood because there was no way after the plug broke free that you could arrest your movement before scraping a knuckle on the starter housing.

1. Forming shop heads on the aileron-to-bellcrank pushrod rivets.

These puppies hold the studs in the ends of the tube. First off, the drawing calls out too long a rivet. You're trying to squeeze/buck these without them cleating over which is very, very likely, because they're being squashed onto a small diameter surface. Substituting steel pop rivets would require identifying, locating, and buying eight from somewhere. Can't use screw/nut because the profile must be kept low to penetrate the rear spar. Oh, looky here! Van's says you can substitute welding! Cool. "Dear? I need to buy another tool."

John,

Rant #1. That's what old hockey gloves are made for. They worked great for that kind of stuff!

Rant #2. Shop heads. Been there done that! I had a friend who is a body hanger at Hendricks Motor Sports take them to work and weld them up for me. (The NASCAR race team not the dealership.) Talk about quality work! He even filled the rivet holes I had made. Finding a good welder is worth as much beer as you can poor down him, after the welding of course.

John Adams · #3 10-13-2005, 09:41 AM

On the roll bar, to get the spacers in and all, I simply (and easily) installed the bolts updside down (from drawing - so the nut/washer is on top (in view) instead of down under. However, bending the roll bar to fit the fuse, that was a challenge. That chrome moly tubing is strong and flexible.

On that Roadrunner plug changing, I had a 1970 429 Cyclone that sparl plugs were also a bugger. It needed plugs every 6000 miles.

f1rocket · #4 10-13-2005, 10:04 AM

Wait until you finish your airplane and have all the firewall foreward stuff looking great, neat, and tidy. Then, along comes that first oil filter change. It must just be me, but I've tried all the bread bag tricks, etc and I still manage to spill oil all down the back of the engine case, wire looms, controls, mounts, heater hoses, etc. AARRGGHH!!

collinsj57@adelphia.net · #5 10-14-2005, 06:31 AM

When changing to oil I was showen a trick,

Take a sharp object (awl) and punch a small hole on the side of the filter facing up near the rear of the filter. Place a pan or small tupper ware container under the filter (Large enough to hole the contents of the filter). Turn the filter so the hole in at the bottom and drain. When it,s drained, finish removing the filter with a rag under it.

You will spill very little oil if any.

John

andyrv · #6 10-23-2005, 08:46 PM

Anyone know a good welder? I would be glad to pay for shipping both ways and the beer.

Andy

dan · #7 10-23-2005, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by collinsj57@adelphia.net

When changing to oil I was showen a trick,

Take a sharp object (awl) and punch a small hole on the side of the filter facing up near the rear of the filter. Place a pan or small tupper ware container under the filter (Large enough to hole the contents of the filter). Turn the filter so the hole in at the bottom and drain. When it,s drained, finish removing the filter with a rag under it.

No mess method that I use:

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (651 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com

rv8ch · #8 10-23-2005, 10:08 PM

Quote:

)_( Dan

Dan, Just curious, what does )_( mean?

dan · #9 10-24-2005, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rv8ch

Dan, Just curious, what does )_( mean?

It's a profile view of my AFP injection servo (actually, it was something I typed by accident about 10 years ago and it stuck).

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com