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11-23-2008, 08:26 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 634
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Where to buy Cherry SPR blind rivets?
I'm in need of a few Cherry SPR rivets and I can't seem to find anywhere that has them for sale online. A few major industry supply firms like Wesco have them, but there's no online store for them, as the general public isn't their market.
Any tips would be appreciated.
thanks
-John
Edit: Actually, I need any type of 3/32 rivet that would be acceptable for doing the bottom four holes in the F-712 bulkhead, or is common practice to drill those out to 1/8?
__________________
RV-7 N313TD
SOLD 7/2/2020
Last edited by John Courte : 11-23-2008 at 08:35 AM.
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11-23-2008, 09:13 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 1,177
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This may help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Courte
I'm in need of a few Cherry SPR rivets and I can't seem to find anywhere that has them for sale online. A few major industry supply firms like Wesco have them, but there's no online store for them, as the general public isn't their market.
Any tips would be appreciated.
thanks
-John
Edit: Actually, I need any type of 3/32 rivet that would be acceptable for doing the bottom four holes in the F-712 bulkhead, or is common practice to drill those out to 1/8?
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We have the 1/8" countersunk Cherrymax rivets with a reduced head very close to the size of a 426ad3 rivet.
I believe it would actually work well using Cleaveland's 509-4 dimple die set for the 4-40 countersunk screws ( try first )
Do not open up the holes to #30 drill until after dimpling, or play with scrap and find out what size to drill before dimpling that will leave you with the right size hole after you dimple.
We stock these in 10 piece bags (initiated by RV'ers)
The part #'s for the small packs are cr33214-4-2pkg/10
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...D4%2D2PKG%2F10
We also have these in 4-3,s and 4-4's
For the tech page see
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...?pagename=cmax
Best wishes and have FUN! 
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11-23-2008, 10:16 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 634
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These are already dimpled, and were actually riveted as part of the RV7 QB fuse. The thing is, I had to drill them out to remove F-712 so I could get the tailwheel spring mount in there.. everything went back on but the four lowest. I think the reduced-head cherry type would be ideal in this situation.
Thanks!
__________________
RV-7 N313TD
SOLD 7/2/2020
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11-23-2008, 11:02 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 2,346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Courte
These are already dimpled, and were actually riveted as part of the RV7 QB fuse. The thing is, I had to drill them out to remove F-712 so I could get the tailwheel spring mount in there.. everything went back on but the four lowest. I think the reduced-head cherry type would be ideal in this situation.
Thanks!
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It sounds like you could possibly use structural Cherry CR3213-4 rivets...the same type I used in several places on the forward upper skin too difficult to access after the instrument panel and wiring was in place. Since that upper skin is .032 and dimpled to accept -3 solid rivets, it doesn't take much to machine countersink a slight bit of material from the dimple and then ream the holes up to 1/8" to accept -4 Cherry rivets. Unpainted, it takes a close comparative look to notice the Cherry's are not solid and if painted, you'd never know the difference.
__________________
Rick Galati
RV6A N307R"Darla!"
RV-8 N308R "LuLu"
EAA Technical Counselor
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11-23-2008, 11:21 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 1,177
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Close, but...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick6a
It sounds like you could possibly use structural Cherry CR3213-4 rivets...the same type I used in several places on the forward upper skin too difficult to access after the instrument panel and wiring was in place. Since that upper skin is .032 and dimpled to accept -3 solid rivets, it doesn't take much to machine countersink a slight bit of material from the dimple and then ream the holes up to 1/8" to accept -4 Cherry rivets. Unpainted, it takes a close comparative look to notice the Cherry's are not solid and if painted, you'd never know the difference.
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Rick, the numbers are close but I do need to clarify for the other readers.
The CR3213 are nominal diameter universal (standard size) head.
The CR3214's are nominal diameter, reduced head countersunk.
The rest of your post is totally on target,  thanks.
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11-23-2008, 11:32 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 2,346
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Tom,
My mistake. Glad you caught that. I meant to say....the readily available flush type Cherry CR3212. It is not a reduced head blind rivet but in my experience, it still works just fine.
__________________
Rick Galati
RV6A N307R"Darla!"
RV-8 N308R "LuLu"
EAA Technical Counselor
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11-23-2008, 11:44 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 1,177
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It will work terrific when..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick6a
Tom,
My mistake. Glad you caught that. I meant to say....the readily available flush type Cherry CR3212. It is not a reduced head blind rivet but in my experience, it still works just fine.
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They will work terrific when you plan for their installation and use a dimple die for the 426ad4 size from the start. That is totally what the were designed for.
When you are trying to get the 1/8" rivet in where you originally set up for a 426ad3 dimple, go with the CR3214.
This is a good thread, I get calls on this frequently.
Knowledge is not only power, it can save time and money too! 
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